A tale of fin and patty Tuna burger
The hamburger lacks ham, having been named, perhaps, in honor of the place — Hamburg — not the meat. The turkey burger is unknown to Turkey, while the cheeseburger is neither from nor made from Cheese. Each comes garnished with its own odd syntax.
Then there’s the tuna burger, which isn’t a burger in the patty-of-compressedbits sense. Burger status is conferred by the housing — a bun — and not the tenant — a tuna steak. The lettucewrapped version — bereft of patty and bun, both — somehow retains rank.
By what authority? Perhaps the paper cloak, which suggests a certain burgerly pedigree. Perhaps the portability. Or perhaps the fact that it’s quick, savory and delicious. Proof enough. Prep: 5 minutes Cook: 6 minutes Makes: 4 servings 4 portions (4 ounces each) tuna fillet, each ½-inch thick Olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper soft hamburger buns, such as potato rolls (or substitute a sturdy lettuce leaf) ½ cup wasabi aioli, see recipe 2 cups kale salad, see recipe 4 slices red onion 4 slices ripe red tomato, lightly salted 1. Grill: Brush tuna with oil; season lightly with salt and pepper. Heat a wide cast-iron griddle (or skillet) over medium-high. Sizzle tuna to your liking, about 3 minutes per side for medium. 2. Build: Open buns. Spread each side with 1 tablespoon wasabi aioli. Heap onto each bottom bun: ½ cup kale salad, 1 slice onion, 1 slice tomato and one portion tuna. Top with top bun. Wrap in butcher paper. Munch. Wasabi aioli: Stir together ½ cup mayonnaise, 1 tablespoon prepared wasabi paste, 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley, 1 finely chopped garlic clove. Kale salad: Cut away ribs from 1 bunch lacinato kale. Thinly slice crosswise. Rinse and spin dry. In a large bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons sesame oil, 1 tablespoon red miso paste, 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots, ½ teaspoon finely chopped garlic, ½ teaspoon salt. Toss in the kale and ½ a peeled cucumber, finely chopped. Toss. Chill 8 to 24 hours. Toss again. Provenance: Adapted from CP Burger, Aspen, Colo.
4