Santiago’s Bodega expands its big, bold flavors, and that’s a good thing, writes Heather McPherson.
When I heard Santiago’s Bodega, a fave Mills 50 tapas restaurant and bar in Orlando, was adding an Altamonte Springs location, I was more than a little skeptical. Sanford? I could see that. The Altamonte/Longwood line? Hmm.
The Bohemian vibe of the eatery on Virginia Drive near downtown Orlando fits the eclectic neighborhoods sandwiched between Lake Ivanhoe and Mills Avenue. This isn’t a cookie-cutter restaurant and many parts of the suburbs are sweet spots of chain eateries with carbon-copy settings and menus. Furthermore, the new Seminole County location was going to be in a bland, older strip mall tucked off busy State Road 434 and not visible from the road.
The owners have made me a believer. Santiago’s Bodega has taken a worn stucco canvas and transformed it into a tavern and restaurant that mirrors the Central Florida location in many ways. And the kitchen serves up the same small bites with big, bold flavors.
And if you build it, they will come. The Saturday and Sunday buffet-style brunch ($39.95 including unlimited mimosas or sangria) with modified table service (madeto-order omelets, French toast made from croissants and pancakes are brought to you) is a big weekend draw.
The midday weekend spread includes fresh Mason jar salads, steamed crab legs and killer bis-
cuits with sausage gravy. A carving station entices with a salt- and herb-crusted prime rib, leg of lamb and roast chicken. The beef was a spot-on medium rare with exceptional exterior bark. The chicken needed the moistness of the accompanying gravy.
For dinner I recommend ordering one of the large salads for the table to share as the food flows from the kitchen. Tapas orders are typically a staggered parade.
The avocado and pear
salad ($12) was a shareable mélange of fresh field greens tossed with a creamy Parmesan dressing and topped with pine nuts. The acidic dressing was a good foil for the buttery avocado and mellow pear.
Beef short ribs ($12) included two sticky pieces bathed in a hoisin glaze and served with orange-miso slaw. The inside was not as juicy as it should be, but the meat was tender.
Our order of spanakopita ($8.50) featured two plump phyllo pillows stuffed with feta, onion, spinach and drizzled with an impossibly rich hollandaise sauce.
The meatballs ($9 for 3) were nicely packed and served with a nest of angel hair pasta marinara.
Marinated in spicy citrus juice and served chilled with fresh avocado, mango and cilantro, the yellow fin tuna ceviche ($14) was ultra-fresh with clean flavors from all the elements.
For dessert we shared the croissant bread pudding with blueberries and vanilla ice cream ($7) and the fudgy chocolate flourless cake ($7). I love it when people say “I will have one bite” and the next thing you know the plates are demolished.
Brunch service was slightly off, but at dinner it was engaging and attentive.
Orlando’s Santiago’s Bodega was the company’s first venture outside South Florida. This third location shows the concept still has wings in Central Florida.