Gumbo basic training Learning 1 easy-to-make method opens way to gazillions of variations
amounts of fat and flour is cooked to various shades of darkness. In its adopted New Orleans home, the fat is oil, and the roux can be cooked to very dark.
Okra. This native African vegetable arrived with West African slaves.
File powder. Ground, dried leaves of the sassafras tree add flavor along with consistency. If you’ve never seen a sassafras tree, they’re really cool because they have three distinct leaf shapes: one regular, leafy shaped leaf; one with two parts that makes it look like a mitten (or Michigan, if you want to stoke a little regional pride); and one with three parts that make it look like the Canadian flag or Lisa Simpson’s hand if you couldn’t see her thumb.
Now, some hardcore New Orleans cooks might argue strenuously about what thickeners go with what. My advice is, listen to them respectfully, then do what you want. We’re not trying to be authentic here; we’re just trying to re-create, as my Kendall College colleague chef Elaine Sikorski lectures, a New Orleans flavor profile.
Here’s what you do:
If you’re using roux, combine equal parts by weight vegetable oil and flour in a large Dutch oven. Stir it over medium heat until it’s very dark brown, about 15 minutes.
Add a 2-to-1-to-1 mix of diced onion, celery and green bell pepper — the New Orleans version of the French “mirepoix.” Stir it into the roux until it starts to brown; 3 or 4 minutes.
If you’re not using roux, start by sauteing the vegetables in oil until brown.
You could also stir in a clove or four of minced garlic when the other stuff starts to brown.
Add stock. Homemade is best, but, let’s be honest, who’s got the time, what with all the phone calls and emails? Chicken stock works for just about everything, or use fish stock or canned clam juice for seafood gumbo.
Add your other ingredients:
If you’re not using roux, make okra equal to the weight of the proteins. If you are using roux, cut the amount in half.
Andouille sausage, cubed chicken or duck breasts, beef short ribs, chunks of ham, anything. For seafood, don’t add it until 5 to 10 minutes before serving the gumbo, so you don’t overcook it.
Try equal parts of ground red, black and white peppers, along with dried thyme, oregano and bay leaf. How much? How spicy do you want it?
Hmmm. More than a few people argue that tomatoes have no place in a proper gumbo. I say, unless those people are rich relatives of yours from whom you stand to collect a tidy inheritance someday, go for it.
Simmer everything together about 30 minutes. In that time, the starchy flavor of any roux will disappear, and the okra (if you’re using it) will have thickened the broth.
If you’re using file powder, it’s typically added at the end, about an ounce or 2 per quart of gumbo.
Season with salt, and you’re ready to go. Mound some cooked rice in a bowl and ladle the gumbo around it. Yum.