Falling in love with halibut

After Alaska trip, she’s hooked on mild, sweet fish

found ourselves at our supermarket fish counter buying four thick fillets of wild-caught Alaskan halibut.

Fortunately, halibut can be found fresh in fish markets much of the year in the lower 48. However, we are nearing the end of peak season. From now until November, Alaskan halibut reigns as a top choice for its superior taste and mouthwateringly tender texture.

From the family of righteyed flounders, halibut is the largest type of flatfish and often weighs hundreds of pounds. The Marine Stewardship Council advises that we only buy Pacific halibut (which includes Alaskan). Atlantic halibut has been seriously overfished and is listed on the group’s “avoid” list. When buying any fish, always read signs and labels and ask questions. No signs or labels? Find another store.

Good fish does not come cheap. Whenever possible, plan to cook it the same day it’s purchased. Before I shop, I put a cooler with blue ice blocks in the car to transport the fish home safely. Once home, I rinse the fish, wrap it loosely in wax paper and set it on a tray lined with ice in the refrigerator.

My favorite way to cook halibut is to coat it in fresh herbs and let it “marinate” for an hour or so. Then a simple seasoning of salt and pepper and cooking in flavorless oil will allow the delicate flavor of the fish to shine. I prevent overcooking (and dry, mealy texture) by searing the fish quickly in a very hot pan, then popping that pan into a very hot oven. The drops of pan juices that accumulate as the fish cooks should be spooned over the fish before serving.

I usually shy away from sweet elements with fish, but I will never forget the lavenderhoney-glazed roast halibut we ate on our first night in Fairbanks. At home, I season orange blossom honey with minced fresh lavender, spicy cracked pepper and a little lemon zest. A judicious dollop over the hot fish will make you swoon. (Any leftover honey tastes fantastic on buttered biscuits or toast spread with goat cheese.)

By the way, this recipe can be made with other fish. I like wild-caught Alaskan salmon (silver salmon is in season now), cod and sablefish (also known as black cod) here too.