It’s doughnut day — treat yourself
Go big or go basic, but make sure you find time to enjoy ‘the perfect blank canvas for creativity.’
“So, this is what happens when chefs get high, right?” I ask, without looking up from the plate.
I never got a direct answer, but the culinary minds behind Orlando Meats did relent that ideas can begin with something as simple as a joke.
I’m not sure which inspired the truffle ranch duck confit doughnut, but as I sat there, sampling not rich custard, but tangy salad dressing, from the center of this fresh-fried oddity, I realized I was using my middle finger. It might have been a subconscious thing. Because I was annoyed that I kind of liked it.
To be clear, it’s a one-bite kind of like. Two, max. The ranch’s creaminess and the light, barely sweet yeast do offset the salty duck. It’s a chomp better suited, I think, as a passed appetizer. At a hipster foodie wedding. Interesting for adventurous types and, as a mini, better sized to avoid getting duck fat in your handlebar mustache.
But whether any of the above appeals matters not. Its indisputably fun. Because it’s a doughnut.
“They’re 100 percent joyful,” says Ian Russell of the doughnut, a near-universally beloved, popculture permanent confection, “and a perfect blank canvas for creativity.”
Russell is the owner of Smoke & Donuts, which has been combining two perennial favorites — barbecue and doughnuts — since starting out as a popup in 2016. Since then, they’ve evolved through the food-truck stage and settled into a spot at Belicoso Cigars in Mills 50.
Right now, though, you’ll find them in pandemic mode — serving takeout from the truck in its fornow spot at 2545 Coolidge Ave. in Orlando. And they’ve got a few doozies of their own on the permanent menu. Offerings like ‘The Lou.’
“It’s our bestseller,” says Russell. One tailor-made for sharing, “… but honest-to-God some people eat that bad boy all on their own.”
The hot, cake doughnut (all are fried-to-order) is slathered with a house-made glaze of Maker’s Mark bourbon and Vermont maple syrup, then covered in chocolate chips — which melt, natch. To this they add hunks of Heath bar and — c’mon, you knew it was coming — a pile of brisket burnt ends.
“It’s sort of like when the world fell in love with bacon on a doughnut,” says Russell. “The outer edges of the brisket are exposed to so much oakwood smoke, and that creates vanillin, which the brain reads as sweet. It’s a solid, sweet-savory pair
ing, though, and those who eat it all themselves treat it like a meal.”
That said, a laughing Russell adds that he recommends people eat a balanced diet that’s full of fruits and green vegetables and get plenty of exercise.
“All things in moderation,” he advises.
That goes for the doughnuts, too. While “The Lou” and marshmallowy “Smoreo” are super decadent, customers can also enjoy simple glazes that complement the savory side of the business.
“We do a lot of Florida citrus flavors,” he says. “The candied lemonade, for example, is zesty and bright with fresh lemon and lime juices and the acid does a good job of balancing things out.”
For Doughnut Day, Smoke & Donuts will also be offering a lemon-blueberry Mascarpone masterpiece with local fruit from Clermont’s Southern Hill Farms.
“And back by popular demand, our Key lime pie doughnut!”
Back in Ivanhoe Village, the Orlando Meats crew have fun keeping it weird, but offer traditional tastes, too. In fact, they’ve been doing doughnuts daily since
The truffle ranch duck confit doughnut.
Day One.
“It was something we could accomplish with relative ease and people really like them for breakfast,” Chef/Owner Eliot Hillis explains. And the treats — with simple glazes such as buttermilk, lavender and curry — weren’t too out there.
In addition to the confit conglomeration, there’s the mall mashup of maple-bourbon chicken, through which you’ll be able to taste the precise, “Jackass”-like moment when the outof-control churro cart collides with the dude handing out samples in the food court.
“Bourbon-maple, bourbon chicken…. These are flavor combinations that are already popular.” And sweeter, by far, than the duck.
Both are on deck for the holiday,
in only slightly smaller versions than the ones I sampled, so I recommend a knife and fork. Or at least cutting it in half. Especially if you have a beard.
Want to reach out? Find me on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram @amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com. Want more foodie news? Sign up for the Food & Drink newsletter at orlandosentinel.com/newsletters.
Where else can you celebrate?
Crave Bakehouse: This Mount Dora bakery (100 E. 4th Ave.) won in multiple Readers’ Choice categories in this year’s Orlando Sentinel Foodie Awards for their specialty confections, all of which are 100 percent sugarand gluten-free (all keto). They’ll be offering a coupon for $10 off a dozen gourmet donuts or a $49-minimum online purchase (good June 5-7). Use coupon code: KETO10OFF. cravebakehouse.com/
The Glass Knife: You’ll find some of the prettiest confections anywhere in this Winter Park shop where today brings guests the special Banana Split Donut, a
fresh banana diplomat, creamfilled and topped with dark chocolate ganache glaze, finished with strawberry whipped cream, salted caramel drizzle, golden sprinkles, a maraschino cherry and 23-karat gold leaf. Additionally, guests can pop in for a FREE Signature Pink Sprinkle doughnut, starting at 8 a.m. One per guest, while supplies last, no purchase necessary. (276 Orlando Ave. in Winter Park; 407-500-2253 or theglassknife.com/)
Krispy Kreme: This perennial favorite knows the world needs sweetness, so this year they gave us a whole week to celebrate at locations around Central Florida. Today’s the last day to get a free doughnut — any doughnut —no purchase necessary. Just go!
Valkyrie Doughnuts: One of my favorite doughnut shops in town (all vegan!) will be throwing just about every flavor they’ve ever done at you on Doughnut Day, including fan favorites such as Nutella Sundae, Caramelized Banana, Twix and more (I’m a churro girl, through and through) — plus they’ll be open a solid 12 hours, 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Hit them up for giant, fluffy, foursided goodness. (12226 Corporate Blvd. in Orlando; valkyriedoughnuts.com/)