A fusion phoenix rises in the Hourglass District
By all accounts, the new arepas are the biggest hit at JJ’s Fresh From Scratch. I have not yet had the pleasure of trying them, but since my recent visit, I’ve been craving an entirely different new menu addition: the chicha.
Founder and owner J.J. Paredes says I’m not alone.
“It used to be that people would always come in for bowls,” he tells me. “Now we have people coming in just for the chicha. It’s a new thing.”
It’s also a fun thing. Fun to say — chicha! — and fun to drink, if challenging. I had to work hard for it.
The bottom of the chicha is thick. Like, really thick. The straw supplied was not quite wide enough for easy sipping — but this is not a bad thing. With a smoothie straw, I’d have made it disappear way too quickly.
Chicha — the Venezuelan version, anyway — is a creamy, sweet (but not too sweet) drink. It tastes as though someone put rice pudding, which I happen to love, in a blender.
“It’s a very traditional sweet drink in Venezuela,” where Paredes’ Executive Chef (and mother) Olivia Lozada, grew up. “There’s
always a local guy selling it right outside the schools and it’s the first thing kids do when they out — get a chicha.”
I would, too. And so, I’m glad I live far enough from their Hourglass District location to resist the persistent cravings.
“Back when we opened six years ago, the Curry Ford area was just called South Orlando,” he says.
And back then — actually up until about four months ago — the restaurant was called J.J.’s Grille (later J.J’s Fusion Grille). It was a fast-casual place, as it is now, and very well set up for takeout. The concept fused several cuisines and allowed guests to do the same.
“We leaned more Mexican and Middle Eastern,” says Paredes, who was only 24 when it opened.
“I was not as confident as I am now and decided to do two cuisines that were popular.”
A bartender at the time, one with a loyal following, Paredes’ regulars became his first wave of customers, enabling the concept to grow. “But as time went by, we decided to stick more closely to our roots, which are Venezuelan and Lebanese.”
Not precisely Lebanese, but Lozada’s father traveled quite a bit when she was young, and she lived for a considerable time with a Lebanese family with whom she is still close. The culture — and food — made a large space in her heart.
“My mom’s tabbouleh, I think, is the best!” Paredes explains. “When I was a kid and sat down to watch ‘Snow White’ or ‘The Lion King,’ my snacks were warm pita and hummus and tabbouleh.”
The menu revamp, new name and fresh look is proving a good move. “People have been going nuts,” he says, upbeat. But it took them awhile to get here.
Back in early April, as the COVID hammer was coming down on the economy, Paredes’ other two locations lost the battle with the virus.
“They were just too new to survive in these locations,” he says.
It was a tough decision, one Paredes stressed over, but with no clear vision of how long COVID-19 would linger, he made the decision to pull the plugs.
“Looking back, I’m glad. Because we’d really be struggling.”
Paredes and Lozada decided on a rebranding, bringing the employees who wanted to stay to the Curry Ford location. Early on he’d been nervous about doing Venezuelan food, “But we figured we’d do what we do, what’s us, and show people how good it is. It’s proving to be a really good decision.”
I first caught wind of the change-up from a reader. Then I heard about the closings. I decided to pop in.
Customer service — which Paredes told me is a primary focus, right up there with the scratchmade food — was superb. The space was flawlessly clean. My order wasn’t quite ready — but that was my bad. I showed up early, and so lingered in a corner chair (masked) noting the greetings, the chatter, the staff hard at work.
Arepas at JJ’s are a new thing. I didn’t know or I’d have gotten one, but if you decide to go and they’re still not listed, just ask.
“My mom is back there making them to order,” says Paredes. “If you don’t mind waiting 10 or 15 minutes, we’ll have it right in your hands — fresh.”
For extra sumptuousness, he suggests adding the carne mechada (Venezuelan pulled brisket) to the oozy cheese inside.
You could still do a bowl — we did spicy Mexican rice and shredded chicken with guac and beans. Or a burrito — we went more Lebanese with this one, marinated chicken, hummus, tabbouleh. There are an abundance of protein and rice options; tofu is new and popular, Paredes notes. New veg options were important amid the upgrade.
Sitting there, though, I recalled the reader letter. “Even before you open the front door you can smell the beautiful aroma in the parking lot,” she wrote. “I love their jasmine rice. Enjoy!”
The place smelled heavenly, indeed.
As for the rice, I’ll be drinking mine — even if I have to fight for it — through a straw.
Want to reach out? Find me on Twitter or Instagram @amydroo or on the OSFoodie Instagram account @orlando.foodie. Email: amthompson@orlandosentinel.com. Join the conversation at the Orlando Sentinel’s new Facebook forum, Let’s Eat, Orlando.