Orlando Sentinel

Beloved restaurant reopens to guests in DeLeon Springs

- By Patrick Connolly

After some needed renovation­s and a change in vendors, the beloved pancake restaurant at De Leon Springs State Park has reopened for guests.

The restaurant reopened Monday morning as breakfast enthusiast­s trickled in the door following a five-week closure, during which the historic building got a new roof and other upgrades. Guest Services, Inc. is setting up operations in the park after outbidding longtime concession­aire Schwarze Enterprise­s for a new 10-year contract with the state.

“We’ve designed new tables; they’re more efficient. We have new flooring. We have a bigger retail area. We have three new jumbo fans,” said Matt Smith, the Florida district manager for Guest Services. “We’ll offer some more things down the road, but we’re pretty much offering the same menu with a few small changes for the better.”

What was formerly known as the Old Spanish Sugar Mill Restaurant is now called the Old Sugar Mill Pancake House, a change made partially at the behest of the state park. The Spanish had nothing to do with the constructi­on of the building; it was built by plantation owner “Colonel” Orlando Rees. The current building is actually a 100-year-old replica of the original 1830s sugar mill.

The contract between Guest Services and the state makes clear that the concession­aire must maintain the traditiona­l experience of “‘cook your own’ pancakes which guests will prepare at the table, by means of a griddle recessed into the table surface.”

The company has made good on that promise with brand

new tables and capacity for 90-100 diners, though GSI hopes to expand that with a larger screened-in back patio. In addition, the restaurant is expanding its operating hours.

“We open at 8 a.m. when the park opens and will close by 4 or 5 p.m. determined by volume,” Smith said. “The walk-up window will continue to be open after the restaurant closes, and we’ll open a small snack shop down by the water.”

While the pancake recipe did not carry over from the previous vendor, diners commented on the thickness or volume of the fivegrain pancakes, a change they saw as positive.

“It was great,” commented Constance Johnson, a neighbor of the state park. “The pancakes come up thicker.”

“They taste good, everything is great. They’ve got some learning to do because this is different from a normal restaurant,” said Lewis Johnson. “We’ll see where they are after the first of the year. They’re listening, they’re willing to hear from guests and make adjustment­s.”

While some of the staff are new, four or five employees decided to continue working with the restaurant under the park’s new vendor. Smith said all of the previous concession­aire’s employees were given the chance to apply for jobs.

He also added that while Guest Services is headquarte­red in Virginia, the company’s hospitalit­y office is in Naples and that approximat­ely 40 percent of the company’s work force is employed in Florida.

Guest Services is revamping amenities for visitors in other areas of the park, including a small retail space in the visitor center with souvenirs and additional rental offerings.

“We’re looking at providing cabana rentals. We’ll have rentals of kayaks, stand-up paddle boards, tubes and snorkeling equipment,” Smith said. “We’re bringing in a different tour boat with capacity for 38 passengers, versus 21 or 22 previously.”

Boat tours and rentals are temporaril­y on hold as park staff waits for water levels to recede after Hurricane Ian.

While the restaurant just reopened to guests for the cook-your-own pancake experience Oct. 17, park staff expect larger crowds during upcoming weekends. Smith and his team are eager to show off the improvemen­ts.

“At the end of the day, we brought the restaurant up to speed with more modern stuff,” Smith said. “It’s a privilege to be here.”

 ?? PATRICK CONNOLLY/ORLANDO SENTINEL ?? State park resident volunteers, Tim Lugar, from left, Kyrah Lewis and Jedidiah Lewis experience the reopened Old Sugar Mill Pancake House in De Leon Springs State Park on Monday.
PATRICK CONNOLLY/ORLANDO SENTINEL State park resident volunteers, Tim Lugar, from left, Kyrah Lewis and Jedidiah Lewis experience the reopened Old Sugar Mill Pancake House in De Leon Springs State Park on Monday.
 ?? PATRICK CONNOLLY/ORLANDO SENTINEL ?? The Old Sugar Mill Pancake House has reopened with the traditiona­l cook-your-own pancake experience under a new vendor, Guest Services, Inc., within De Leon Springs State Park on Monday.
PATRICK CONNOLLY/ORLANDO SENTINEL The Old Sugar Mill Pancake House has reopened with the traditiona­l cook-your-own pancake experience under a new vendor, Guest Services, Inc., within De Leon Springs State Park on Monday.

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