How to add mulch, save squash from worms
Q: I’m planting a Knock Out rose bed. I’m considering pine straw, pine mulch or cypress mulch. Any recommendations?
A: Plants are not that particular as to the type of mulch. Of the ones you are considering, pure cypress mulch is usually not available in an effort to save these trees. Often it is offered as cypress blended with other tree barks or chip products. Use any of these mulches or others as a two to threeinch layer over the roots of the rose planting. Keep it back several inches from the base of the bushes to ensure good aeration and to prevent rot of the stems as they enter the ground.
Q: I have a 20+-year-old crepe myrtle. Is there any way to stop the tree from putting out new bottom shoots?
A: At least one product known as Sucker Stopper appears to be giving control of unwanted crape myrtle shoots when applied as directed on the label. Reports vary and it may not offer total control but helps reduce the frequency of needed pruning. You may be able to find it at an independent garden center or order over the Internet. With any tree or shrub, suckers often form after pruning or damage to stems, roots or trunks at ground level. Good pruning cuts back close to major tree or shrub portions also help retard bud development and more unwanted shoots known as suckers.
Q: I started coleus from seed. When is a good time to transplant them outdoors and the best location?
A: Spring and summer are coleus times. It’s one of the preferred plants that can withstand the heat and humidity of the rainy season. Most plantings last into fall or early winter until damaged by cold. Now the real problem is determining how sun tolerant your seed-grown plants might be. Usually the more green and colorful the leaves the better they can withstand full sun exposures. You might also check the seed packet or seed source to determine if there is information that might help with the best location. If sun tolerance cannot be determined, filtered sun in a shady location would be best.
Q: A clump of African iris in my landscape is now very large. When and how do I divide it to make more?
A: Grab a sharp flat pointed shovel and maybe a long knife and start making the divisions. Anytime a clump reaches a good size is time to separate the plants to increase the collection. The rhizomes from which the shoots arise are very woody and it takes some effort to separate the clumps. There is no need to try and obtain individual plants as small to medium size clumps of rhizomes work well as transplants. Give your new plants a prepared sunny site and keep them moist to get them established.
Q: Yellow squash are forming on our plants but there is one problem — they are full of holes. What can I do to get some to eat?
A: These squash are edible if you cut around the little protein sources that are making them unattractive. Melon and pickle worms are common squash, melon and cucumber spoilers. Since your harvests are already infested, cut off the squash with any sign of holes in the fruits. Then apply a natural spray of
Thuricide or a spinosad containing insecticide. The latter can be found at independent garden centers. Follow the label and be prepared to make repeat applications as instructed.
Q: We live in an area where lawns cannot be fertilized after the end of May and until October. What should I do to help get the lawn through summer?
A: Four months is a long time to expect a lawn to go without fertilizer during one of its best growing seasons. Plan a feeding for the end of May using a product with slow-release properties. Such products usually mention these extended feeding qualities on the label. This should get your lawn through the end of summer with reasonably green, vigorous growth. If you need to keep a greener look try an iron-only fertilizer about mid-summer which is often permitted in areas with what is commonly called ‘black out’ periods. If you have any questions about the use of fertilizer on your lawn during the summer, contact your local University of Florida Extension Office.
Q: I would like to create a small hedge and have been thinking of boxwood. Do they grow locally or is there an alternative?
A: Both Japanese and Korean boxwood grow locally but they are nematode bait. What this means is if you plant them in soils with root-knot nematodes they are going to be affected and eventually decline. Even if the nematode population in the soil is low, the roots are likely to be attacked and in five, ten or so years the plants start to yellow in sections and die. Take a look at the dwarf yaupon holly as an equally pleasing alternative selection. The leaves are similar and it makes a great low hedge. Plus it is nematode resistant. This native holly has few problems but gives the plants reasonable spacing so over time they can grow together but still allow good air movement between the limbs. This helps prevent limb blight problems caused by fungus when they grow too congested.