How to halt a crabgrass invasion
Q: Azaleas in our yard are starting to bloom, but the plants are large and lanky. When can they be pruned, and how much?
A:
Enjoy late winter and early spring blooms, and when they are over, give the azaleas a needed pruning. Good pruning usually includes removing some of the older and often declining stems. You can also thin the plants a little and then reduce the height and width as needed. If the azaleas have not been pruned for years, heavy pruning that reduces the size of the shrubs by one-half or more might be needed. Do keep in mind the more severe the pruning, the longer it takes the plants to resume growth, and they may not flower again for two years. After pruning, apply a slow-release azalea fertilizer, which should be repeated in May and early October.
Q: It has been pretty cool. When is the next time to plant tomatoes?
A:
Tomatoes won’t restart good growth until day temperatures are consistently in the 70 and 80-degree Fahrenheit range. Some gardeners set transplants in the ground around the end of February and keep cold protection covers handy. Sometimes, the later weeks of February can be very warm. Other gardeners wait until early March to plant their tomatoes. It is important to set the plants in the garden
at least sometime during March to ensure a good fruit set before the really hot weather returns.
Q: I notice Spanish moss growing quite heavily in many crape myrtle trees. Is it causing any harm?
A:
Most of the time, we can ignore Spanish moss, but when it invades crape myrtles, it can engulf the shrubs and tree forms. Usually it is not necessary to remove all the moss from crape myrtles but only the large clumps by hand or with a garden rake. Some gardeners have used copper fungicides as labeled for crape myrtles and homemade baking soda sprays to get the moss under control. Other trees and shrubs seem to tolerate the Spanish moss growth and provide shade that keeps it from filling the
limbs. Only when these trees lack vigor or are in decline does it seem to fill the branches and compete for foliage sites. Gardeners are reminded sprays made as home remedies are not labeled for use and may affect plant growth.
Q: I removed several caladium bulbs from the ground while cleaning a flower bed. Can I delay putting them back into the ground, or would this affect the bulbs?
A:
Caladium bulbs — actually tubers or thickened stems — don’t have to spend the entire winter underground. In colder regions, they are dug up during the fall and stored for the winter. Right now, your tubers are likely dormant and not ready to sprout until consistently warm weather arrives. Let them air dry for a few days, and then store them in dry peat moss or similar material at room temperature until the garden is ready.
Q: I am noticing the ornamental grass being trimmed back often, with most of the top portion removed. Is this the correct time and proper technique?
A:
Now is the time to take the pruners to the ornamental grasses. Many have been filled with old flower and seed-producing portions. Often, they also have yellow to brown leaves among the green ones. The present practice is to cut most plants back to within 12- to 18- inches of the ground. Grasses are very resilient, and with warm weather, adequate water and spring feeding, they can regrow very quickly to create the plants you remember.
Q: Each year, the crabgrass returns to fill in my lawn. What is the best way to keep it from growing?
A:
If it was not for crabgrass, many residents would not have a lawn. But, if you don’t want it to resprout and compete with the good grass, now is the time to get it under control. Most crabgrass looks brown at this time, but don’t let it fool you. While many of the sprigs could be dead, some are always ready to grow. These have to be removed from the lawn. In many instances it is best to remove infested areas of turf and resod. Products to prevent the growth of crabgrass seeds are sold as preemergence herbicides for use with your lawn type. Look for ones that mention crabgrass control on the label. These can be used with thin lawns that have a minimal crabgrass invasion or if you want to keep the crabgrass out of the good turf. They usually cannot be used if you plan to resod or seed an area as they prevent the good grass from rooting down or germinating. Perhaps the best solution for small areas of crabgrass is to dig them out and add patches of fresh sod or plugs. Then, when the crabgrass is noted, it can be pulled out or spotkilled with a non-selective herbicide following label instructions. Some gardeners also find that spot-treating young crabgrass growth with a very light dusting of baking soda as a home remedy gives good results.
Q: I have heard the peace lily called a closet plant, and I would like to put one that is blooming in a spot with artificial light for four hours a day. Will this light harm the plant?
A:
No green plant likes to be in a closet, but some can take the lower light levels. The peace lily, or spathiphyllum, can exist under the lower light levels but four hours a day of light is not very much. Either leave the light on longer or find a better spot in the home near a bright window. At the lower light levels, peace lilies develop long, thin leaves and stop flowering. They prefer bright light locations but no direct sun.