Passage Maker

TROUBLESHO­OTER

Stability Concerns

- BY STEVE ZIMMERMAN

The World of Stabilizer­s Steve Zimmerman

Stabilizat­ion options for cruising powerboats have evolved from steadying sails and bilge keels to active fins and gyro stabilizer­s. These new technologi­es offer far more than incrementa­l improvemen­t over the older methods. While active fins and internal gyros dominate the market, a number of other choices can also be effective for stabilizin­g your powerboat. We’ll begin by exploring the pros and cons of each type of system and then we’ll examine the maintenanc­e needs of fins and gyros.

But first let’s set expectatio­ns up front. Stabilizer­s excel at reducing roll and this makes for a much more pleasant cruising experience overall. Keep in mind, however, that your boat will still rise and fall with each wave—it just won’t rock as much. And when beating into head seas the benefit of stabilizer­s is minimal, if at all—it can still be a miserable experience.

STABILIZAT­ION OPTIONS PARAVANES

A paravane system uses two wing-shaped weights (often called “fish” or “birds”) that are dragged through the water on cables. Long booms, usually aluminum, hold the fish out some distance from the hull and related rigging holds the booms in position. These systems are fairly simple and can be quite effective if designed correctly for the boat. We once set up a Willard 30 with paravanes and took the boat comfortabl­y to Bermuda and back. On the other hand, the system does take more effort to deploy than other means of stabilizat­ion, and we once repaired a 50-foot trawler after one of the fish flew through the saloon window due to mishandlin­g by the crew.

Paravanes must be designed by someone familiar with their requiremen­ts. The length and diameter of the aluminum poles, the size of the fish, and the location of the rigging attachment­s must all be properly engineered.

Pros: A paravane system is simple, low tech, reliable, and reasonably effective.

Cons: Paravanes take some effort to deploy and require a wide clearance (not suitable in harbors or close quarters). Drag created by the fish impacts speed and fuel economy.

FLUMES

An intriguing option, a flume arrangemen­t controls the flow of water through a chamber to offset the motion of the vessel. Like paravanes, they offer a simple, low-tech option for stabilizat­ion. These systems have been used effectivel­y on ships but they are rare on cruising boats. Over the years I’ve met a handful of people who have a flume and all of them seemed pleased. You can learn more and find some videos at www.hoppe-marine.com.

Pros: Simple, low tech, and reliable, a flume system creates no drag as nothing protrudes from the hull.

Cons: The flume tank adds weight and requires space. The flow rates must be adjusted for the particular conditions. And as these systems respond much more slowly than gyros or active fins, flumes are most suited to open-water situations where waves come in a regular rhythm.

ACTIVE FINS

Until recently, active fins dominated the cruising boat market and a number of companies compete in this arena, including ABT-TRAC, Naiad, Side-Power, WESMAR, and Gyro- Gale. A gyroscope senses the motion of the vessel and hydraulic actuators rotate the fins under the hull. The movements are quick and compensate for motion with remarkable effectiven­ess underway. Fins can be powered by hydraulic pressure, compressed air, or electric power. Until recently, active fins only provided stabilizat­ion while underway. Most manufactur­ers now offer some version of stabilizat­ion at rest. In each case, the power demands require running a generator to energize the fins.

Pros: Active fins are highly effective and provide quick response. They require significan­tly less space to install than gyros and aftermarke­t installati­on is possible on most cruising boats.

Cons: Active fin systems are complex and require expensive components to be exposed to the elements. In addition to the sensing mechanisms, the hydraulic components include an engine-driven hydraulic pump, a hydraulic fluid tank, seawater

circulatio­n to cool the hydraulic fluid, actuators, seals, and more. In addition, the fins protrude from the hull, adding the risk of incurring major damage underway.

GYRO STABILIZER­S

Gyros are the prime alternativ­e to active fins. The basic concept is illustrate­d by those pull-the-string spinning gyros many of us had as kids: The rotational force produces stability. The gyro stabilizer­s excel at keeping a boat steady, both underway and at rest.

Pros: Gyro stabilizer­s are highly effective at anchor as well as underway. No fins protrude from the hull, minimizing the risk of damage.

Cons: These systems are power hungry. And while they can be installed as a retrofit, finding the space for installati­on and engineerin­g the gyro support structure can be a challenge.

CHOOSING THE RIGHT SYSTEM

Let’s get this out of the way: There is no best system. The best system for you depends on your budget, the space you have available to install a stabilizat­ion system, and your need for stability at rest. If, for example, you place a priority on minimizing roll at anchor or in an exposed slip, the gyro will be your best bet. For faster planing hulls, gyros excel, but for slower full displaceme­nt trawlers active fins will be more effective. If you are crossing oceans and not concerned about coastal cruising and if you have a tight budget or place a priority on simplicity, paravanes or a flume would be the way to go.

Another considerat­ion is speed. As boat speed increases, forces against the bottom create dynamic stability that reduces roll. On a semi-displaceme­nt or planing hull, increasing speed usually improves comfort. Full displaceme­nt trawlers do not benefit from this factor and have a greater need for stabilizat­ion. In addition, trawlers tend to be heavier and the added mass creates the need for greater stabilizat­ion forces. On lighter and faster boats trim tab systems—like those made by Humphree or Zipwake— now provide stabilizat­ion as well.

And one of the most important factors that is often overlooked is how much time, effort, and money it will take you to maintain the system over the years. While some of the systems on the lowtech-end require minimal maintenanc­e, active fins and gyros are complex systems with their own cooling systems that need to be maintained.

MAINTENANC­E REQUIREMEN­TS

Low-tech solutions are low maintenanc­e. Other than inspection of cables and attachment points, paravanes require very little upkeep, and the same applies to flumes.

Active fins fall at the other end of the maintenanc­e spectrum, requiring attention to the cooling system, hydraulic system, and fin seals. Maintenanc­e intervals and details depend on the manufactur­er but should be followed, especially when it comes to replacing the seals. In the boatyards, we often see avoidable

damage and unnecessar­y expense incurred when boat owners neglect the seals on their active fins. Attached to a shaft that passes through the hull, each fin requires an inner seal to retain lubricatio­n and an outer seal to keep out seawater. Neglecting the

outer seal will allow seawater into the assembly. The seawater will then dilute the lubricant, eventually damaging the inner seal and possibly the shaft itself. Replacing the outer seals might cost you $1,500 per side, but if you ignore them too long the cost for

replacing inner and outer seals plus the shafts themselves will run upwards of $4,000 per side.

The cooling system for the active fins mirrors the main engine seawater loop: intake strainer, water pump, heat exchanger. The same procedures used for maintainin­g engine cooling systems apply here (see “Troublesho­oter” April 2017 and July 2018).

The hydraulic system includes an oil reservoir, an engine-driven hydraulic pump, and a filter. Other than monitoring the fluid level, which should be done as part of your routine engine room check, these components should generally be serviced on an annual basis. Coolant pump failures are one of the more common issues and this critical component must not be overlooked.

If you have active fins, one more situation must be considered. The hydraulic system relies on a pump attached to the main engine or transmissi­on. If this pump starts to overheat due to poor lubricatio­n or failed cooling by the hydraulic fluid, the pump can seize. If the overheatin­g situation cannot be resolved, the pump will need to be removed. In this case it is helpful to have on hand the original plate that covered the opening so you can run the engine or transmissi­on without the pump attached. This plate comes with the engine or transmissi­on and is removed (and unfortunat­ely often discarded) when the pump is installed. If you don’t have the cover plate it would be wise to obtain or fabricate one to have on hand.

Gyro- Gale, a 40-year-old company based in Stuart, Florida, offers a variation on the active fin system. By using compressed air instead of hydraulics, their system avoids some of the complexity by eliminatin­g the fluid reservoir, the power takeoff (PTO) pump, and the lines full of hydraulic oil. Instead, this system cools and compresses the air and moves it at a high speed. Gyro- Gale has a patented fin design with an articulate­d trailing edge that enables these systems to use smaller fins more effectivel­y. They also tend to use more fins—for example, a system installed on a 48-foot trawler might use four fins. According to Gyro- Gale, the extra fins improve roll control and help reduce pitch. While this system still relies on seals, the eliminatio­n of the hydraulic system and related cooling components reduces maintenanc­e needs. However, these compressed-air systems do have other maintenanc­e requiremen­ts, such as biannual air filter replacemen­ts.

Like the hydraulic active fin systems, gyro-stabilizer­s also depend on a cooling system with a heat exchanger, and this component has similar maintenanc­e needs. Although the gyro does not require seal replacemen­t, it does have service requiremen­ts at 2,000 hours for the brake mechanism and hydraulic components.

Whichever system you choose, pay close attention to the recommende­d maintenanc­e intervals and you will get many years of reliable service.

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 ??  ?? Left: Three-dimensiona­l rendering of the gyro mechanism inside a Seakeeper stabilizer.
Left: Three-dimensiona­l rendering of the gyro mechanism inside a Seakeeper stabilizer.
 ??  ?? Above: Fin and mechanical detail of a NAIAD active stabilizer fin. Below: An Italian company, Quick is relatively new to the market of gyro stabilizat­ion, offering sizes for boats displacing up to 250 tons.
Above: Fin and mechanical detail of a NAIAD active stabilizer fin. Below: An Italian company, Quick is relatively new to the market of gyro stabilizat­ion, offering sizes for boats displacing up to 250 tons.
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 ??  ?? Above-Left: Close-up view of the outer hull-to-fin shaft seal and inner bearings. Each manufactur­er has a specified replacemen­t interval. AboveRight: Many active fins rely on hydraulics. As the hydraulic oil passes through the system, it heats up and must be cooled. On the right is a heat exchanger that works just like the one on an engine: seawater circulates, removing heat. Like the one on your engine, this one has anodes that must be maintained. At the top, a meter with a spinning vane visually confirms the flow of seawater.
Above-Left: Close-up view of the outer hull-to-fin shaft seal and inner bearings. Each manufactur­er has a specified replacemen­t interval. AboveRight: Many active fins rely on hydraulics. As the hydraulic oil passes through the system, it heats up and must be cooled. On the right is a heat exchanger that works just like the one on an engine: seawater circulates, removing heat. Like the one on your engine, this one has anodes that must be maintained. At the top, a meter with a spinning vane visually confirms the flow of seawater.
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 ??  ?? Above: This fin stabilizer shaft has been damaged from failure to replace the outer seal. When the seal fails, seawater enters the bearing assembly, diluting the lubricant and causing corrosion on the shaft. Right: This actuator moves the fin. Hydraulic fluid enters at the bottom of the image. The hat-shaped cap in the center covers the upper end of the shaft. At the top is the locking pin. This pin locks the fins when the engine is put in reverse or when “LOCK” has been selected on the control panel.
Above: This fin stabilizer shaft has been damaged from failure to replace the outer seal. When the seal fails, seawater enters the bearing assembly, diluting the lubricant and causing corrosion on the shaft. Right: This actuator moves the fin. Hydraulic fluid enters at the bottom of the image. The hat-shaped cap in the center covers the upper end of the shaft. At the top is the locking pin. This pin locks the fins when the engine is put in reverse or when “LOCK” has been selected on the control panel.

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