Ex­pe­ri­ence true French cuisine at this restau­rant that’s known for its del­i­cate and unique menu.

Philadelphia Style - - CONTENTS - $96 for two, 1623 E. Passyunk Ave., 267.639.3203, townsendrestau­rant.com – Adam Erace

HIGH STEAKS At his pol­ished French din­ing room, Townsend, chef-owner Townsend Wentz shows a deft touch with del­i­cate crea­tures like rab­bits, scal­lops and snails. But last spring, he in­dulged his love of beef in a big way. “I thought to my­self, if I’m go­ing to do beef, it’s got to be côte de boeuf [the show-stop­ping, thick-cut, bone-in rib steak]. For the French, it’s clas­sic,” says Wentz, who sources 30-day dry-aged sides of grass-fed, grain­fin­ished Creek­stone beef from Lafrieda Meats, cuts them into 32-ounce steaks, slow roasts each slab with thyme and black pep­per, and fin­ishes them to or­der in a blue steel skil­let. Townsend’s pow­der-blue-shirted servers present the steak whole be­fore it’s whisked back to the kitchen, carved into medium-rare, umami-rich morsels and plated with sea­sonal veg­eta­bles like heir­loom to­ma­toes and Jersey corn salad in early fall, and pick­led chanterelles and roasted parsnips as the weather cools. You won’t find a bet­ter steak in the city.

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