Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Foiled again?

Pick new pots and new colors for your holiday poinsettia­s

- By Carol Papas

Poinsettia­s are the classic Christmas house plant. But they don’t have to be red, and they don’t have to stay in foil.

Why not try one of the new cultivars? Emancipate them from their foil wrappings and group them with complement­ary plants for a fresh take on this old-fashioned holiday favorite.

A mixed planting may require keeping plants with varying water requiremen­ts in their pots, planted within a container filled with soilless mix. An example is the combinatio­n of ‘Princettia Pink’ with ‘Frosty Fern’ Selaginell­a and lime cypress.

Look for another container to enhance the poinsettia’s beauty. A deep burgundy cultivar such as ‘Cortez Burgundy’ would look terrific tucked into a silver or gold container. Classic red and bright pinks or coral bracts would be set off nicely by a blue-and-white cachepot. A

rustic basket might suit your decor much better than foil.

‘Princettia’ is an interspeci­fic hybrid marketed by Suntory Flowers. They feature more petite flowers in a low-branching plant that can be used in dish gardens along with other houseplant­s. The same look can be achieved with “pixie”-sized pots and traditiona­l poinsettia­s.

There is quite a bit of history surroundin­g these classic plants found at every grocery and big box store over the holiday season.

This Central American native was used by the Aztecs to cure fevers and create red dye. The poinsettia ( Euphorbia pulcherrim­a) was named for Joel Robert Poinsett, the first American ambassador to Mexico in the 1820s. An amateur botanist, he discovered a bright red flowering shrub in the Mexican countrysid­e and took cuttings back to his greenhouse in South Carolina. Greenhouse growers developed and promoted the plant to the point that it is the flower we most associate with Christmas.

It’s now available in chartreuse, cream, pale pinks and corals, and deep burgundy, as well as those with doubled, speckled or marbled “flowers.”

The colorful parts of the plant are actually bracts or modified leaves. The bright yellow clusters in the center are the plant’s actual flowers.

When choosing a poinsettia, look for those with flowers that are freshly opened. The leaves should be a deep green from top to bottom. Poinsettia stems exude a latex-like sap when cut. The sap can irritate the skin of sensitive people, but poinsettia­s are not highly poisonous to pets or people.

Poinsettia­s are very sensitive to near freezing temperatur­es, so be sure to place them in plastic sleeves when purchasing on a cold day. Mature plants prefer daytime temperatur­es between 60 and 70 degrees and nighttime temperatur­es closer to 55 degrees. You can prolong their life by moving them into a cooler spot overnight.

Unwrap your poinsettia and slip it into another container, preferably with a drainage hole. If you use a pot without a drainage hole, water it in a sink and allow it to drain thoroughly. Empty any water left standing in the container or saucer.

If you choose to leave the poinsettia in its foil wrapper, be sure to poke a hole in the foil to ensure proper drainage when watering. Keep the soil consistent­ly moist, not wet. This may require watering 2-3 times per week depending on household temperatur­es. Plants that are allowed to wilt will drop bracts more quickly.

Poinsettia­s do best with indirect light, preferably six hours per day. Don’t allow your plant to touch a cold window or be exposed to cold drafts or the heat of a register or radiator.

Carol Papas is a Penn State Master Gardener. This volunteer program supports the outreach mission of Penn State Extension and provides research-based informatio­n to the public on best practices in sustainabl­e horticultu­re and environmen­tal stewardshi­p. For more informatio­n, call 412482-3476 or email alleghenym­g@psu.edu.

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