WEIHNACHTEN!
German markets make the Christmas season magical
MUNICH, Germany — When you mention Munich, most people think Oktoberfest. But the capital of Bavaria has another, much older tradition that dates back nearly 700 years: Christmas markets.
As the biggest city in a predominantly Catholic region, Munich counts more than 15 Christmas markets in the metropolitan area. You don’t have to be Catholic, Christian or even religious to enjoy the hundreds of vendors selling traditional German food, drinks, crafts and ornaments, and a variety of trinkets from their stalls.
I was on mission to find Gluhwein as soon as I arrived at Marienplatz (St. Mary’s Square). Gluhwein is a mulled red wine infused with cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg and other spices. On my first night in the city, the drink seemed like a good start if I wanted to immerse myself in German Christmas culture.
Gluhwein stalls were everywhere, and each vendor had a different commemorative mug. Two sips and I knew the drink was not for me, but the mugs were. I collected several, telling the vendors to skip the wine and just sell me the mug.
When you’re in Munich, no matter what the season, beer is the drink of choice. Beer halls selling Augustiner, Lowenbrau, Spaten, Paulaner and Hofbrauhaus were busy and decked out for the Christmas season.
The streets that form Marienplatz are lined with stores, and the Christmas market stalls are set up in the middle. With camera, cash and a credit card in hand, I set out to eat, drink and dress German for a few days. The quickest way to blend in is with a traditional Tyrolean hat or trachtenhut.
At the Christmas markets, you can buy the felt hats in green and red for about $24. Or, for the real thing, go to Breiter, which has been making hats since 1863 on the pedestrianonly Kaufingers t r a s s e , w h i c h runs off Marienplatz. Breiter hats will cost you $225 or more.
Decorate your Alpine headgear with pins and feathers from the nearby stalls, kiosks and shops. After buying a dozen Christmas ornaments, I got a pretzel and a bratwurst. It was time to watch the Glockenspiel.
Each day at 11 a.m. and 5 p.m., all eyes turn to the massive clock set into a tower overlooking Marienplatz. You can tell when it is about to happen because everyone stops, looks up and aims cameras and cell phones at the tower.
First the bells toll, then the musical chimes. Figures begin to move, twirl and dance in a two-tiered show that depicts a royal wedding. Fifteen minutes later, it ends with three chirps from a mechanical bird, and everyone gets back to celebrating the season.
The Medieval Christmas market at Wittelsbachplatz is special. Vendors dressed in authentic-looking costumes sell swords, knives, mead, mulled wine and handmade goods common to the Middle Ages. Blacksmiths and leather workers ply their crafts as jugglers, fire eaters, dancers and musicians playing period tunes enhance the experience.
Wherever you wander in Munich in December, the spirit of Christmas is there. You can’t take it home, but here’s a tip: Bring a little bubble wrap for your souvenirs and wear the hat home.