Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

The newest curse of the mummy: poor drainage

- By Declan Walsh

KOM OMBO, Egypt — Since Howard Carter discovered Tutankhame­n’s tomb in the Valley of the Kings nearly a century ago, pop culture and folklore have invoked the fabled curse of the mummy, said to plague those who unearth the hidden treasures of ancient Egypt with bad luck, disease or death.

But at the ancient temple of Kom Ombo, 400 miles south of Cairo, where archaeolog­ists recently unearthed a stack of decaying mummies, peril takes a more prosaic form: waterlogge­d foundation­s.

Decades of flood irrigation in the surroundin­g fields, which were once desert, have soaked the soil beneath the temple. Water has penetrated the sandstone foundation­s, combining with salt and heat to scrub some hieroglyph­s from the temple walls. The symbols and figures, effectivel­y the lines of an ancient story, are fading to dust.

The solution, according to engineers on a $9 million U.S.-financed project, is some modern drainage. Since October 2017, dozens of laborers have been digging a 30-foot-deep trench around the temple walls in an effort to drain the groundwate­r and divert it back into the Nile.

“Expanding into the desert is a nice dream,” said the project engineer, Tom Nichols, standing on a hill behind the temple. He pointed to the fields of lush sugar cane, dotted with farmhouses, that pushed up against the temple walls. “But you need to look at the other consequenc­es, too,” he said.

A team of archaeolog­ists is working alongside the laborers, hoping to save any treasures that are uncovered in the dig. It has found significan­t objects, including a bust of Marcus Aurelius, an Old Kingdom pottery workshop and a relief of Sobek, the crocodile god of the temple. On a searing July afternoon, one archaeolog­ist held forth an ancient lunch: a fistful of charred, 4,000-year-old grains of wheat, discovered in an excavated urn.

“This project allows us to rewrite the history of the temple,” said Ahmed Sayed Ahmed, director of Kom Ombo,

The most exciting discovery may have been in recent weeks, when archaeolog­ists pulled a sand-encrusted sphinx from a damp hole. It has been dated to the Ptolemaic era, which ran from 305 B.C. to 30 B.C.

At less than 2 feet tall, the sphinx is a dwarf compared with the famed Great Sphinx of Giza, which rises to 65 feet and stretches 240 feet from head to tail. It also had a broken paw and no identifyin­g markings.

But unlike the Giza sphinx, whose features are badly eroded by time and the elements, the Kom Ombo sphinx is finely preserved — as is the sense of its mythic power: a man’s head on a lion’s body, its wide eyes once again staring out after 2,000 years in the dark.

Even a diminutive sphinx symbolized a fierce devotion to the temple gods, said Matthew Douglas Adams, a research scholar at New York University’s Institute of Fine Arts. “It signified that the king was guarding the temple and keeping out the forces of chaos,” he said.

Keeping the water out is another matter.

The water troubles at Kom Ombo, and at many other Pharaonic sites along the Nile, are a product of one of Egypt’s proudest successes.

The massive Aswan High Dam, 30 miles upstream from Kom Ombo, transforme­d Egyptian agricultur­e when it was completed in 1971. Having tamed the ancient cycle of flood and drought, Egyptians could cultivate up to the river’s edge, helping make their land some of the most productive on earth.

Constructi­on of the dam also set off one of the world’s most spectacula­r archaeolog­ical rescue missions. Through the 1960s, Egyptian and Swedish officials rushed to save a pair of temples at Abu Simbel that faced inundation from the rising water of Lake Nasser, which lies behind the dam. Engineers cut the temples into 1,035 blocks, each weighing between 20 and 30 ton, and in 1968 reassemble­d them on higher ground, exactly as they were.

In the decades since, though, the unwanted side effects of the Aswan Dam have become gradually more apparent. In some parts of the fertile Nile Delta, the dam has caused increased salinity, forcing farmers to switch crops or abandon fields entirely. And the Pharaonic temples lining the river also have suffered.

Many of the temples were built at a time when the surroundin­g area was desert, and down through the centuries became cocooned in layers of sand — near ideal conditions for preservati­on. But today the temples are hemmed in by lush fields, farmhouses and a country of nearly 100 million people.

Climate change has brought harsher, more variable weather, and it has accelerate­d the decay caused by rising groundwate­r and untreated sewage and water from informal houses.

 ?? Laura Boushnak/The New York Times photos ?? Tourists visit the temple of Kom Ombo, near Aswan, Egypt, in July. Engineers and architects working together to save the ancient riverside temple in Egypt have discovered rare treasures, including a sphinx.
Laura Boushnak/The New York Times photos Tourists visit the temple of Kom Ombo, near Aswan, Egypt, in July. Engineers and architects working together to save the ancient riverside temple in Egypt have discovered rare treasures, including a sphinx.
 ??  ?? A Roman nilometer, which measured the Nile's water level during the annual flood season, at Kom Ombo in Egypt.
A Roman nilometer, which measured the Nile's water level during the annual flood season, at Kom Ombo in Egypt.

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