Even in South America, the Steelers (almost) steal the show
BUENOS AIRES, Argentina — Even on a cruise ship docked near Paracas, Peru, the Steelers are a draw.
Mary Beth and Larry Oresick of Richland watched the Black & Gold beat the New England Patriots on Dec. 16 on a big screen above one of the ship’s constantly sloshing swimming pools.
“There were a lot of New England fans there, but I was cheering for the Steelers,” said Mary Beth, who sailed from Los Angeles to Santiago, Chile, aboard Star Princess with husband Larry, who is about to retire from a radiation therapy job at the VA Pittsburgh Healthcare System in Oakland.
But the Steelers had some solid competition as the ship pulled out of port. Passengers turned from the game to observe “The Chandelier,” one of a series of ancient “Nazca Lines,” mysterious geoglyphs — some are just lines, others are figurative designs, including animals — carved into the Peruvian desert. (Were they created to be viewed by sky-bound deities, or is there a more extraterrestrial explanation?)
The Chandelier is on a hillside abutting the sea, so a cruise ship offers an ideal viewing platform.
The Nazca Lines were one of many sites to see on our 30-day cruise from Los Angeles to Buenos Aires. (Princess allowed multiple booking configurations, including L.A. to Santiago, Santiago to Buenos Aires or the whole 30-day cruise.)
Last August we started planning the South America cruise idea and included our 8- and 4-year-olds plus one grandma to the itinerary.
It turned out leaving from Los Angeles, which adds another two weeks to the journey, was the less expensive option due to the exorbitant cost to fly into Santiago, Chile.
But 30 days is a long time to have two kids on a ship — in interior cabins — and if I had to do it over, I might spend the extra money to fly to Santiago.
The most appealing ports are found in the Santiago-to-Buenos Aires portion of the trip.
Los Angeles-to-Santiago
includes stops in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico (walk to a beach!); Puntarenas, Costa Rica (see monkeys and crocodiles!); and Lima, Peru (dirtier and worse traffic than Manhattan). While the early ports left something to be desired and while we were going somewhat stir crazy on the days at sea — there are only so many times you can watch the same movie — the later, post-Santiago ports made the trip worthwhile.
Valparaiso, Chile: This port city is distinguished by its colorful homes that cling to seaside hills. Pittsburghers will feel at home thanks to nine working funiculars that crawl up and down the steep terrain.
Puerto, Montt: We traveled about 90 minutes inland to Vicente Perez Rosales National Park, home to the Petrohue Waterfalls and several volcanoes. Despite clouds in Puerto Montt, we found sunshine and amazing views of Orsono Volcano and the Andes.
Beagle Channel: The landscape highlight of the entire cruise as the ship sailed through narrow gaps between towering mountains dotted with glaciers and waterfalls. It puts Alaska’s Inside Passage and Tracy Arm Fjord sights to shame.
Ushuaia, Argentina: This port paled a bit compared to the Beagle Channel, but we still enjoyed our trip into Tierra del Fuego National Park via taxi. The driver wisely warned us against a ride on the park’s tourist train (it’s sloooow), directing us instead to some spectacular short hikes and the world’s southern-most post office. (Postcards take about a month to return from Tierra del Fuego to the United States.)
Falkland Islands: The highlight here is seeing penguins, but unlike other ports where guides clamor for your business, most of these excursions are booked through the cruise line with just a few locals waiting at the port to be hired. We engaged a local woman to drive us to Bertha’s Beach to cavort with Gentoo penguins. On the way back to port she also took us to Gypsy Cove, home to Magellanic penguins, an idyllic beach unconscionably mined during the Falkland Islands war between Great Britain and Argentina in 1982. Visitors must stick to a path on bluffs above the beach because of the risk posed by unexploded ordnances.
Buenos Aires, Argentina: An absolute highlight made cost effective by the strength of the U.S. dollar compared to the Argentine peso. Everyone said, “Eat the Argentine beef,” and they weren’t wrong. Two tenderloin steaks, wine, sides and dessert set us back just $66 at the chichi Chiquin restaurant. Highlights included antique shopping in San Telmo (much cooler and less touristy than nearby La Boca, known for its colorful buildings), a pilgrimage to the grave of Eva “Evita” Peron in Recoleta Cemetery, gelato at the Freddo chain and a plethora of parks with playgrounds and the coolest children’s museum we’ve ever visited. (At Museo de los Ninos in Abasto one exhibit allows kids to follow what happens after flushing a toilet by crawling down into a mock-up of sewers.) Getting around by cab proved practical, expedient and inexpensive ($5-$10 per trip).
Even though our favorite ports were in southernmost South America, there were benefits to taking the whole 30-day journey. These included the lower total cost, crossing the equator (complete with a shipboard ceremony), and getting to better know the ship’s crew and folks like the Oresicks.
But their Los Angeles-toSantiago trip came with an unexpected speed bump: Princess accidentally sent a piece of their luggage on a cruise to Hawaii, and by the time it caught up with them in Lima, authorities there refused to let their bag through customs. The bag had not returned to the Oresicks as of late February — its last known whereabouts was Montevideo, Uruguay — but they did receive $750 in compensation from Princess.
Still, the Oresicks said this cruise itinerary — their eighth — was enjoyable.
“I’d rank it was one of my favorites,” Larry said, noting the abundance of sea days — nine out 16 during their portion of the voyage. “I found it very relaxing, restful and a great winter break.” (Sea days would definitely be more relaxing without children in tow.)
The Oresicks are already planning a return to South America to complete the southern portion of the trip.