Magic Noodle is fast-casual Chinese food
Perhaps The Magic Noodle lives up to its name for fans of Chipotlestyle, concoct-your-own-dish applied to Chinese cuisine.
The new spot opened in the former space of the beleaguered Malaysian-Chinese restaurant Sun Penang at 5829 Forbes Ave. in Squirrel Hill. And thankfully, it’s had an overhaul: The new dining room has leaner lines and less clutter, along with the same garage door that opens to the sidewalk and a bar.
The menu features appetizers like crispy pork buns, dumplings and steamed beef tripe ($5-$8), along with chicken feet and chicken wing stews, or house noodles with shredded pork and spicy pickles for $10. Stir-fries are also on the menu, like a $5 curry fried rice with peas and eggs ($5) and Shanghai-style stir-fried noodles ($5).
“Match, Mix, Magic” is a separate menu that offers more fun for those who like choices. Step 1 is choose your noodle, such as Yangchun-style with soy, pho, handmade or dry noodles. Step 2 is to decide whether you’re having dry noodles or soup. Step 3 is to determine how spicy, with choices of 0, 1, 3 or 5. (I’m guessing 4 is left out because it’s an unlucky number.) And last, it’s time to match toppings, from $4-a-piece braised ribs or minced pork to $3-a-piece jumbo shrimp, or $2-a-piece broccoli, mushroom, tofu or bok choy.
Magic Noodle is a departure from Chinese restaurants that have opened locally the past few years, such as the Sichuan-focused Chengdu Gourmet, Northeastern Kitchen with its wheat-centric dishes and hearty stews, and the Taiwanese fare of places like Everyday Noodles, all in Squirrel Hill.
Here, it’s less about traditional regional Chinese dishes than personal preference. When it comes to heat, the combination of chilies and Sichuan peppercorns that make your mouth tingle points to the huge popularity of Sichuanstyle spices both here and abroad.
Magic Noodle is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday and until 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday; the restaurant closes at 9 p.m. Sunday.