FOUR WAYS TO MAKE AN AWESOME BURGER

Memorial Day marks the unofficial start of the summer grilling season. And while most of us can’t wait to get our buns out there, it’s not without at least some trepidation.

We need a burger that rises to the occasion — one that doesn’t only looks oh so good!, but tastes great, too.

For some burger aficionados, perfection can only be achieved in the space between a hot griddle and a sturdy metal spatula. For others, the road to success starts with a homemade spice rub or a really great special sauce to add zest and zing.

Still others say the key to burger greatness is to cook it with a surprise inside — melty cheese or sauteed veggies, or maybe even both, if you really want to shake things up.

We asked some local burger experts for advice on how to build a better burger, and offer four ways of preparing them: smashed, sauced, spiced and stuffed. No matter which way you go, always begin with freshly ground meat that has at least 15 percent to 20 percent fat . That will make for a juicier patty. Also, use cold meat (ground beef starts to naturally render at 55 degrees) and be careful not to overwork it when forming the patties. If you’re too heavy handed, you’ll end up with a hockey puck of a burger.

PG tested

A really good sauce will add flavor to any burger. This “epic” topping combines simple, everyday ketchup with mayo and hot sauce; a pinch of barbecue rub adds zing.

For burgers

2 pounds 80/20 ground beef

8 teaspoons BBQ rub 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

For sauce

½ cup mayonnaise

¼ cup ketchup 1 teaspoon hot sauce 1 teaspoon BBQ rub 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

For serving

4 slices cheddar cheese 4 potato hamburger buns

8 slices cooked bacon 1 Roma tomato, thinly sliced

Shredded iceberg lettuce Prepare charcoal or gas grill for cooking.

Make burgers: Portion ground beef into 4 patties. Season each with 1 teaspoon rub. Drizzle ¼ teaspoon olive oil over each patty, on top of seasoning. Flip patties over and repeat. Let patties rest at room temperature until grill is ready.

Make sauce by combining all the ingredients in a bowl and mix thoroughly.

Grill the burgers until golden brown and slightly charred on the first side, about 3 minutes. Flip the burgers. Cook beef burgers until golden brown and slightly charred on the second side, 4 minutes for medium rare.

Place a slice of cheese on top of each patty. Cover and cook for 1 minute or until cheese is nice and melty. Remove patties and cover with foil.

Open buns and spread ½ tablespoon of sauce on top and bottom. Place patty on bottom bun and lay 2 slices bacon in an “X” across each patty. Spread another ½ tablespoon of sauce on top of bacon and patty; Place 3 to 4 slices of tomato on top and cover with a small handful of shredded lettuce. Add top bun.

Makes 4 burgers. — Adapted from “Operation BBQ” by Stan Hays with Tim O’Keefe ( Page Street, April 2019, $30)

SMASHED BURGER Fiore Molet, the chef behind Burgh’ers in Zelienople and Lawrencville, is known for his smashed burgers. Not only does flattening a ball of hamburger meat between a hot pan and a metal spatula seal in the juices, but it makes the burger bigger “and then you’re just inclined to like it more,” he says. His tips: Place the meat ball on the hot grill for about 30 seconds, then smash once “and never smash again.” Season with salt and pepper and cook until patties are well browned, about 1 minute. Carefully scrape patties from pan with spatula and flip. Room temperature meat is easier to smash.

Ketchup and mustard are the quintessential burger sauces, but what if you want something jazzier? Sauces shouldn’t mask the taste of the meat, says Burgatory’s executive chef Vince Piconi, especially if it’s good quality beef. You also have to take into account the bun, and all the other toppings. One sauce that can’t miss mixes together the Holy Trinity of burger condiments: ketchup, mayo and mustard, with a little lemon squeezed in. “It’s simple, with a little tang and some sweet,” says Mr. Piconi. SAUCED BURGER

RUBBED BURGER Brian Pekarcik, chef/partner of Spoon and BRGR in East Liberty, wouldn’t dream of throwing a burger on a flattop or grill without first seasoning it. “It just enhances the meat,” he says. But he does have one fast rule: Wait until right before you cook the patties to add the spice mix. He opts for a mild blend of spices that’s similar to seasoning that you would use for a barbecue smoked butt: salt, sugar, paprika and onion and garlic powders. A good burger rub, he says, shouldn’t dominate or overpower the meat.

STUFFED BURGER Gretchen McKay/Post-Gazette photos So this burger isn’t for everyone. Big Burrito executive chef Bill Fuller goes so far as to call a stuffed burger heresy. It certainly makes a burger lose its integrity, he says. “Why would you put something inside a burger,” he asks, “when you can just put it on top of the burger?” Still, a stuffed burger holds a certain appeal for cooks who want to surprise their guests, or simply cook something novel.

Gretchen McKay/Post-Gazette