BEEF PARES MAMI (BEEF NOODLE SOUP)
The Vietnamese noodle soup known as pho can be a lifesaver in cooler weather. Fragrant and aromatic, it doesn’t take long to make or require hard-to-find ingredients. This pho recipe from Abigail Sotto Raines, who created the food blog Manila Spoon, is a simplified version of pares mami from the Philippines.
Bite-sized chunks of chuck roast are simmered in beef broth along with cinnamon sticks and star anise until they’re fall-apart tender, then served with egg or lo mein noodles instead of the traditional rice noodles. Toppings can be customized, depending on individual taste, from a list that includes shredded cabbage, hard-boiled egg, fried garlic and fresh red chili. It reheats well for lunch.
2 tablespoons cooking oil 6 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2 pounds chuck roast or beef brisket, cut into bitesized chunks and seasoned with 1 teaspoon each of salt and pepper 4 cups beef broth or beef stock 4 cups water 2 cinnamon sticks 6 star anise 1½ tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste 1½ tablespoons sugar Salt and pepper 1-pound package cooked egg or mami (lo mein) noodles, blanched briefly in hot water, then drained
Napa or savoy cabbage, shredded
Green onions, thinly sliced 3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and halved, for serving Fried garlic, for serving Red chili, sliced, for serving (optional)
Lime slices, for serving Heat oil in stock pot over medium heat. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute or until aromatic. Add beef cubes and cook for 20 minutes, turning meat halfway through the cooking time, until beef is browned all over and has released its fat.
Add beef broth and water to pan, then add cinnamon sticks and star anise. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to simmer.
Cover and cook until meat is tender, 1½-2 hours. Season broth with soy sauce, sugar, salt and pepper to taste.
Ladle noodles into bowls and top with cabbage and green onions. Ladle hot soup and beef cubes on top. Add an egg half and garnish with fried garlic and red chili, if using. Serve with lime slices on the side. Serves 6.
— “Rice.Noodles.Yum” by Abigail Sotto Raines (Page Street, June 2019, $22)