CHILI CON CARNE
Nothing is more pleasing on a frosty fall evening than a steaming bowl of spicy chili. And, no, you don’t need a football game to justify making it.
This old-school Texasstyle chili, made with beef chuck tender, takes the better part of a day to prepare. A blend of whole dried chilies and chipotle chilies in adobo combine to create a sweet, smoky, hot and fruity flavor; cinnamon adds a warm spiciness.
Quickly sear the beef before stewing it with the chili sauce, onion and garlic. But don’t overcook it, or the beef will be on the dry side, even after a long simmer in the pot. Instead of on the stove top, I cooked it in a 225-degree oven with the lid of the casserole dish slightly cracked and thickened it with a bit of masa harina. Like all great pots of chili, it was even better the next day.
2 pounds, 4 ounces beef chuck tender, fat trimmed and chopped into 2-inch chunks 4 dried chilies such as pasilla and ancho, stems and seeds discarded 2 small hot dried chilies such as New Mexico, stems and seeds discarded 3 chipotle chilies in adobo, plus 2 tablespoons adobo sauce Olive oil for cooking 2 yellow onions, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 tablespoon ground cumin 2 teaspoons ground coriander 2 cinnamon sticks 2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican 2 tablespoons masa harina or fine polenta for thickening (optional) 2 tablespoons brown sugar Juice of 1 lime Coarsely chopped cilantro, thinly sliced scallion and chopped avocado for garnish
Warm tortillas or steamed rice for serving Dry-roast the dried chilies over medium-high heat in a large cast-iron casserole, stirring frequently, for 2-3 minutes until slightly darkened with a deep roasted aroma.
Add 3 cups water plus chipotle chili and adobo sauce. Bring to a simmer for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool slightly, then blend in blender until very smooth. You may have to do this in batches.
Heat olive oil in a large flameproof casserole over medium-high heat. Season beef generously with salt and pepper, add to casserole in batches and sear, turning occasionally, for 4-5 minutes to brown all over. Make sure you don’t crowd, or the meat will stew rather than caramelize.
Transfer beef to plate and add onion to casserole. Fry, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes until softened. Add garlic, spices and oregano, and saute until fragrant.
Return beef to casserole along with chili mixture and 4 cups water. Season generously, bring to a simmer and cover loosely with a lid. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 3-3½ hours, until beef is fall-apart tender. Or braise in a 225-degree oven with the lid ajar.
Stir in masa harina (if using) and simmer uncovered to thicken. Add brown sugar, squeeze in lime juice and season. Serve hot on top of rice or with warm tortillas, scattered with cilantro, scallion and avocado on the side. Serves 6.
— “The Ultimate Companion to Meat” by Anthony Puharich and Libby Travers (Countryman Press, October 2019, $45)