Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Cooler heads prevail when vegetables are roasted ahead

- By JeanMarie Brownson

Sure, it sounds crazy to heat up a hot summer kitchen to roast vegetables.

But bear with me. A fridge brimming with containers of roasted cauliflowe­r, eggplant, onions, peppers, mushrooms and squash practicall­y guarantees phenomenal salads, omelets, grain bowls, sandwiches and pasta dishes. To say nothing of savory snacks at the ready.

So, we gather, prep and roast early in the morning in preparatio­n for the meals ahead. When cooler heads prevail, those roasted goodies turn into lunchtime thrillers and dinner inspiratio­ns.

Roasted eggplant always inspires — especially when paired with za’atar. The Middle Eastern seasoning blend made from sesame seeds, sumac, oregano, thyme and other herbs is often dusted on oil-dipped bread and labneh. Sprinkle the za’atar on generously with a bit of olive oil before roasting. The whole kitchen will smell wonderful.

Mostly, I serve roasted eggplant and other vegetables warm or at room temperatur­e seasoned simply with a shower of fresh herbs. This summer, I tried a quick, nondairy, yet creamy dressing, made from tahini (sesame seed paste), fresh lemon juice and garlic to change things up a bit.

For a meatless main course, I stirred the tahini dressing into roasted eggplant along with garlicky whole wheat couscous. Alternativ­ely, I served the dressing

over grilled or broiled fish fillets or chicken cutlets with the roasted vegetables on the side.

An offhand remark about fun ballpark food led to a summer indulgence: roasted veggie nachos.

No neon cheese here — rather neon-colored orange cauliflowe­r bronzed with red chili. Other farmers market purchases, such as jalapenos and corn, get roasted alongside the florets then piled over thick tortilla chips before a shower of shredded cheese. Adding tender black beans for protein helps us rationaliz­e nachos as dinner, especially when served on the patio with a leafy green salad and icy margaritas.

Feel free to skip the tortilla chips and finish the roasted cauliflowe­r simply with a shower of cheese and fresh cilantro.

All of these recipes, like so much of our summer cooking, are better when chunks of ripe, red tomato are added. And cold beer with a splash of fresh limeade to cool off the cook. ROASTED EGGPLANT WITH TAHINI DRESSING AND WHOLE WHEAT COUSCOUS

Bottled creamy garlic, Greek yogurt dressing or creamy feta dressing can be substitute­d for the homemade tahini dressing. If you cannot find dried barberries, dried cranberrie­s make a nice substitute. Chop them if they’re large.

1 medium eggplant, about 1 pound

2 small zucchini or yellow squash or 1 of each

1 large sweet onion, halved, sliced

3 tablespoon­s extra-virgin olive oil

1 to 1½ tablespoon­s za’atar seasoning

Garlic and herb couscous, see recipe

Tahini dressing with lemon and garlic, see recipe

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro or parsley, or a combinatio­n

2 to 3 tablespoon­s dried barberries, chopped dried cranberrie­s or currants, optional

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet.

Trim ends from eggplant; slice it crosswise into ¾-inch thick rounds. Cut the rounds into ¾-inch pieces. Place on baking sheet. Trim zucchini ends; slice each crosswise into ½-inch thick rounds. Add to eggplant along with onion. Toss with olive oil. Sprinkle with za’atar seasoning; toss to mix well.

Bake, turning vegetables once or twice, until eggplant is tender and onion is golden, 15 to 20 minutes.

Transfer cooked vegetables to a large serving bowl. Add garlic and herb couscous and several tablespoon­s of the tahini dressing. (We used all of it.) Toss gently to mix. Serve garnished with chopped herbs and barberries.

Makes 6 servings. Note: Za’atar is a Middle Eastern seasoning blend. It can be found in large supermarke­ts, Middle Eastern markets or order online from spicewalla­brand.com or thespiceho­use.com.

Tahini Dressing With Lemon and Garlic

This dressing makes a terrific sauce for broiled or grilled fish fillets.

¼ cup tahini (sesame seed paste)

2 tablespoon­s fresh lemon juice

2 small cloves garlic, crushed

½ teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon salt Mix all the ingredient­s with 2 tablespoon­s water in a small bowl until smooth. Add 1 or 2 tablespoon­s of water as needed to make a semithick dressing. Taste and adjust salt.

Makes about ½ cup. Garlic and Herb Couscous

Stir roasted vegetables into this for a delicious meatless main course. Shreds of roast chicken or diced tofu also are welcome.

1 cup vegetable broth, chicken broth or water

2 tablespoon­s butter or extra-virgin olive oil

1 large clove garlic, crushed

½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika

1 cup whole wheat couscous or organic couscous

2 to 4 tablespoon­s chopped fresh herbs, such as a combinatio­n of cilantro, chives, parsley, mint

Heat broth, butter, garlic, salt and paprika to boil in a small saucepan. Stir in couscous, remove from heat and cover pan. Let stand 5 minutes off the heat. Fluff with a fork and stir in herbs.

Makes 4 servings.

 ?? Abel Uribe/Chicago Tribune/TNS ?? Roasted eggplant, zucchini and onions are the base of this meatless main course. Serve it with whole wheat couscous and tahini dressing to make it more wholesome.
Abel Uribe/Chicago Tribune/TNS Roasted eggplant, zucchini and onions are the base of this meatless main course. Serve it with whole wheat couscous and tahini dressing to make it more wholesome.

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