Pittsburgh Post-Gazette

Head to these 5 spots for warming pho

- By Colin Parrish 5846 Forbes Ave., Squirrel Hill Colin Parrish (colinrober­t.parrish@gmail.com) is a freelance writer from Etna.

As winter temperatur­es settle in, so do cravings for steamy, hearty dishes to warm you up. Soups are common go-tos this time of year and pho, a Vietnamese soup packed with banh pho noodles, meat, herbs and a slow-cooked broth prepared by pre-boiling beef bones and meat, makes no exception.

Pho is all about the broth, which, traditiona­lly, can take up to five hours to complete by combining charred onion and ginger, fish sauce and toasted spices including star anise, cloves, cinnamon sticks, cardamom pods, fennel seeds and coriander seeds. There are over a dozen places in Pittsburgh offering traditiona­l and phoinspire­d dishes year-round. Here are five stellar options.

Pho Van

Located in the Strip District, Pho Van offers a cozy, comforting atmosphere that matches the rich, velvety and warm broth in its pho. Each pho dish is topped with fresh cilantro, slivered white onions and diced scallions, and served with a side of leafy basil, lime and jalapeños, for a spicy punch. Choose your protein from ribs, brisket, meatballs, tripe, tendon, chicken, shrimp or eye of round.

To make it “supreme,” have all five meats — eye of round, brisket, meatball, tripe and tendon — packed in, or go vegan with fried tofu, bok choy, carrots and snow peas. Add Sriracha and/or hoisin sauce for extra flavor.

2120 Penn Avenue, Strip District

McKnight Kitchen

Inspired by Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese cuisines, McKnight Kitchen boasts a variety of East and Southeast Asian delicacies. The kitchen offers seven pho options with plenty of substitute­s available, including tofu, mixed vegetables, chicken, pork and seafood. Pho Tai consists of eye of round done rare (you can opt for a version with the tender cut of beef done well), while Pho Bo Vien features savory beef meatballs. Beef tripe, oxtail and mixed seafood (shrimp, scallops, squid and mussels) pho are also on the lineup.

4860 McKnight Road, North Hills

Tram’s Kitchen

Tram’s Kitchen offers an array of Vietnamese dishes, including rice-based (try the spicy prawns) dishes and an

array of vermicelli entrees (one with coconut milk and tofu). And then there’s the pho that’s all about the broth. The relaxed restaurant’s Pho Hanoi comes with beef, chicken or meatballs, plus you have the option to mix it up by adding shrimp for an extra $3. Affordable, savory and rooted in tradition, this spot is a can’t-miss sip for pho.

4050 Penn Ave., Lawrencevi­lle

Two Sisters Vietnamese Restaurant

With an industrial-like feel and cozy ambience, Two Sisters Vietnamese Restaurant has a modern look with traditiona­l tastes for any diet. Founded in 2018, Two Sisters has four options for pho: beef (brisket, eye of round and meatballs), chicken ( sliced breast), seafood (scallops, shrimp, mussels) and vegan

(tofu, with broccoli, baby corn, carrots). Other staples of the restaurant include the Bun Bo Hue, a spicy, lemongrass-flavored beef soup with beef brisket, shank and pork roll, a seasoned, ground pork.

216 N. Highland Ave., East Liberty

Kiin Lao & Thai Eatery

Located in the heart of Squirrel Hill, Kiin Lao & Thai Eatery focuses on Thai and Laotian inspiratio­ns with a modern, street-style twist. Their Pho Lao comes with rice noodles, bean sprouts, onion, peanut, tomato and cilantro, with protein options of beef, chicken, shrimp or tofu. While checking out their pho, try Thai tastes like the Sai Oua, a Northern Thailand-inspired recipe of spicy pork sausage with lemongrass, dill, ginger and peanuts served in a fermented soybean-pineapple sauce. Go bold and adventurou­s with sautéed young jackfruit in a curry paste, lime leaf and crispy onion, or try the crispy Brussels sprouts in a honey-lime chili vinaigrett­e. “Street Style” takes include the Yen Ta Fo Pink Noodle Soup, a popular soup in restaurant­s and food trucks in Thailand: Fish balls, ramen noodles, fried tofu and shrimp and morning glory greens in a fermented red bean broth. The Pad Gra Prow, another Thai dish, includes stir- fried ground pork with Thai chili, basil and red peppers in a spicy sauce, and fried egg on top. Stop in for happy hour, Monday-Friday, 4-6:30 p.m.

 ?? Colin Parrish ?? The Pho Supreme at Pho Van includes eye of round, brisket, meatball, tripe and tendon.
Colin Parrish The Pho Supreme at Pho Van includes eye of round, brisket, meatball, tripe and tendon.

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