Recommendations for the best recent dishes I’ve had

Every week, there’s one dish that stands out to me as particularly noteworthy. For the last couple of months I’ve shared those with readers of our freshly re-formatted PG Food newsletter as a Critic’s Choice, aimed to point you in the right direction for your weekend eating adventures.

Here’s a peek at my recent selections. Sign up at postgazette. com/ newsletters and you’ll get these weekly recommendations, and a whole lot more, right in your inbox.

Egg in a Glass

Poached typically isn’t my favorite way to have an egg, but the Egg in a Glass at ECHT Coffeehouse Lounge and Bistro in Mt. Oliver, has me thinking differently. Here, two perfectly poached eggs have firm outsides and yolks that run like lava when you cut into them. They’re served, as the name indicates, in a small coupe with a dusting of herbs and cracked pepper and a lot of warm butter. Pair it with a cup of your choice from the excellent coffee program in the gorgeous space, and

you’re off to a great start for your day. (Dec. 1)

107 Penn Ave., Mt. Oliver

Gus Franco’s

So I was at a Friendsgiving party in Oakmont last weekend and, even as I was eating some tasty fried chicken and mashed potatoes, I couldn’t stop craving a pizza from Gus Franco’s. One of my favorite pizza joints in the region was less than a 15-minute drive from the party, and I just had to stop in for a margherita pizza (and also a bianco, because, hey, I’m already

here). That airy and just a little crispy crust, vibrant sauce and smooth cheese hit the spot. (Nov. 17)

2637 Leechburg Road, Lower Burrell

Duo’s Taqueria

I’ve been pretty obsessed with the tacos at Duo’s Taqueria ever since Duolingo’s culinary spin-off opened in June in East Liberty. Well, let me tell you about its quesadilla, which is made with the same flavorful nixtamalized corn used in the tacos. The plate-sized tortillas are stuffed with butternut squash, queso Chihuahua and epazote (an herb) and served with a side of chef Maria Ogrodnik’s intoxicating salsa negra. The cheese gets a little frico umami at the edges, the corn tortillas take on an enticing toastiness, and the tender squash adds a sweet depth of flavor (and makes it feel like autumn even on, say, a 70-degree November afternoon). (Nov. 10) 5906 Penn Ave.,

East Liberty

Kabab & Curry Restaurant

The lamb korma at Kabab & Curry Restaurant is much

more layered and nuanced than I’ve found elsewhere in Pittsburgh. The menu at the Banksville restaurant draws from a wide range of Indian and Pakistani dishes, with an emphasis on Punjabi dishes. I’m into much of what is offered here, but this korma (also available with chicken) really stands out. (Nov. 3)

2890 Banksville Road, Banksville

The Parlor Dim Sum

Congee typically is served as a breakfast dish in China, but don’t let that stop you from ordering the pumpkin and goji berry version at The Parlor Dim Sum in Lawrenceville as part of your dinner. The earthy pumpkin’s subtle back notes and a pop from the goji berries take the smooth rice porridge into a coldday-with-the-windows-open comfort food dimension. (Oct. 27)

4401 Butler St., Lawrenceville

Ladybird’s Luncheonette

Now that the weather has taken a turn to the crisp side, it’s time to start thinking about stew. Maybe you’re thinking of a crusty hunk of bread with that bowl? Well, what if the bread were layers of buttery pastry and the stew was inside of that. Heck yeah. That’s what I found at the always incredible Lady bird’ s Luncheonette in Beaver, where they serve a seasonal beef bourguignon hand pie. It’s only offered on Fridays and Saturdays and tends to sell out early in the day, so keep that in mind if you’re making the (very worth it) drive to get one. (Oct. 20)

459 3rd St., Beaver

Apteka

It wasn’t a wonder that Apteka was listed among the New York Times’ 50 favorite U.S. restaurants of 2022, as the Bloomfield establishment has wowed me for years. The good times keep rolling with Apteka’s early autumn menu,

which features a stunner called golabki — savoy cabbage stuffed with buckwheat and mushrooms in a savory tomato broth. (Oct. 13)

The margherita pizza at Gus Franco's.

Egg in a Glass at ECHT Coffeehouse Lounge and Bistro.

The pumpkin and goji berry congee at The Parlor Dim Sum.

The lamb korma at Kabab & Curry Restaurant is much more layered and nuanced than I've found elsewhere in Pittsburgh.

Hal B. Klein/Pittsburgh Post-Gazette photos Ladybird Luncheonette’s beef bourguignon hand pie turns the notion of stew on its head by encasing the French classic in a flaky, Appalachian-inspired hand pie.

Apteka's golabki — savoy cabbage stuffed with buckwheat and mushrooms in a savory tomato broth.

A quesadilla, at Duo’s Taqueria in East Liberty, stuffed with butternut squash, queso Chihuahua and epazote (an herb).