6. FISH-FRAGRANT EGGPLANT (AUG. 25)

“If you aren’t a fan of eggplant, it’s because you haven’t had this dish yet,” Hannah Che writes about this recipe in her stellar first cookbook, “The Vegan Chinese Kitchen.” And she is absolutely right: heady with garlic, with a punch of spice from red chili and fresh ginger, this dish is an absolute winner for lovers of Sichuan food. It’s sweet, salty and spicy all at the same time — absolute heaven, and so easy!

For sauce

½ cup unsalted stock of any kind or water

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon Chinkiang black vinegar

½ teaspoon potato starch or cornstarch

For eggplant

1 pound long Chinese or Japanese eggplants (about 3-4 small)

Kosher salt Vegetable oil, for frying ½ cup potato starch or cornstarch

1½ tablespoons Sichuan chili bean paste or pickled chili paste

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger

2 scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts kept separate

Make sauce: In a small bowl, whisk all the sauce ingredients until blended. Set aside,

Cut the eggplants lengthwise into 3-inch sections, then slice them into ½-inch wedges. In a large bowl, combine 3 cups water and 1½ tablespoons salt and whisk until salt dissolves, then submerge eggplant and let soak for 15 minutes. Drain and pat wedges dry. (Salting helps relax the flesh, reduce any bitterness and prevent it from soaking up excessive oil.)

Heat about 1½ cups oil in a wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Coat eggplant lightly in potato starch or cornstarch. When the oil reaches 375 degrees, fry eggplant in batches, flipping and turning it occasionally to cook evenly, until edges are slightly golden and skin is glossy purple and wrinkled, 3- 4 minutes. Transfer cooked eggplant to a paper towel-lined plate. (Reserve oil for another use.)

Return the wok to the stove over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon reserved oil and add the chili bean paste. Stirfry over low heat until its red oil is released, about 30 seconds. Add garlic, ginger and scallion whites and stir-fry until just aromatic, about 30 seconds more. Push aromatics up one side of wok and pour the sauce mixture in the center.

Gently fold the fried eggplant into the sauce and simmer for about 2 minutes, until the eggplant has absorbed the flavors and the liquid is thickened from the starch.

Transfer to a plate, garnish with scallion greens and serve immediately,

Serves 4.

— “The Vegan Chinese Kitchen” by Hannah Che (Clarkson Potter, $35)