LEMONY PASTA WITH WHITE BEANS

Braising canned white beans with garlic, chile flakes and olive oil is a classic recipe — a speedy, meatless, very satisfying weeknight meal. This version turns the mix into a sauce for pasta, brightened by lemon juice and zest and rounded out with fresh parsley or arugula and cherry tomatoes, a juicy contrast to the velvety beans. The pasta water also plays an important role here, keeping the beans from becoming pasty. Use the best olive oil you can, especially for drizzling at the end. That’s where you’ll really taste it, and a robust, herbal oil will add a lot of character to this simple dish.

Salt

1 pound short pasta, such as shells or orecchiette

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, more for drizzling

1 cup diced cherry or other ripe tomatoes

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper, plus more as needed

2 large shallots, thinly sliced

6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 lemon, zest nely grated

2 (15.5-ounce) cans white beans, rinsed and drained

1½ cups chopped parsley or arugula leaves and tender stems

½ cup grated Parmesan, plus more as needed

In a large pot of wellsalted water, cook pasta according to package directions.

As pasta cooks, in a small bowl, combine 1 tablespoon olive oil, the tomatoes and a pinch each of salt and red pepper, and toss to combine. Set aside to marinate.

In a large skillet or Dutch oven, heat ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil over medium. Stir in shallots and sauté until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute, or until the edges just begin to turn golden brown. Add red pepper, ½ teaspoon salt, lemon zest, beans and 1 cup chopped parsley.

Simmer, mashing some of the beans, until the sauce has thickened, 10 to 15 minutes. Reduce heat as needed. Taste for seasoning, and add more salt and red pepper if needed.

Reserve 1 cup pasta water and drain pasta.

Add pasta to white beans, along with remaining ½ cup chopped parsley, the juice of half a lemon, the grated Parmesan and ½ cup reserved pasta water. Toss until combined, adding more pasta water until the mixture is saucy. Toss in the tomatoes and their liquid. Taste, and add more salt and lemon juice if needed. Serve pasta in bowls drizzled with olive oil and topped with more grated Parmesan.

Serves 4-6.