Neapoli­tan Style

This pop­u­lar Ital­ian look is known for be­ing loud and max­i­mal­ist but at its roots it’s a very classical style.

Plaza Uomo USA - - JOURNAL -

Few styles have in­flu­enced the fash­ion for dap­per menswear in the past five or six years more than the Neapoli­tan. This slightly ex­trav­a­gant and ex­pres­sive ap­proach to the classical style has en­cour­aged men from all over the world to don colour­ful jack­ets in plaid, white an­kle­length trousers, suede shoes and five bracelets at the very least. This isn’t quite rep­re­sen­ta­tive of the real Neapoli­tan style, in­stead it’s a ‘max­i­mal­ist’ in­ter­pre­ta­tion by a lot of peo­ple who haven’t even set foot in Naples. On the con­trary, the Neapoli­tan style is orig­i­nally very clas­sic and the city has been home to many a well-dressed aris­to­crat and dandy over the past cen­turies. The modern and con­tem­po­rary tai­lor­ing style be­gan to take shape at the start of the 20th Cen­tury and was strongly in­spired by the Bri­tish style, hence the name Stile In­glese. The in­ter­pre­ta­tion of the Bri­tish tai­lor­ing tra­di­tion was a nat­u­ral con­se­quence as many of the city’s tai­lors had vis­ited and worked in Eng­land. Dur­ing this time it was also com­mon for a lot of Bri­tish up­per-classes, who wore tai­lored cloth­ing, to visit Naples which would also have had an im­pact on Neapoli­tan tai­lors. Con­trary to what you’ll see to­day, the style was rather stiff with struc­tured shoul­ders. It’s un­clear ex­actly when the soft Neapoli­tan jacket was first in­vented but many peo­ple be­lieve that Vin­cenzo At­tolini was one of the most in­flu­en­tial in terms of de­vel­op­ing the style and con­struc­tion. As a tailor work­ing for an ate­lier in the ‘30s he be­came in­spired by Rome-based Caraceni’s softer jacket con­struc­tion. At­tolini took this a step fur­ther and re­moved all the pad­ding and struc­ture to cre­ate the su­per soft and light jacket con­struc­tion that we now as­so­ci­ate with Naples.

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