Plaza Uomo USA - - JOURNAL -

The struc­ture is very soft and fre­quently un­lined. Shoul­ders are nat­u­ral and of­ten com­pletely un­struc­tured. The two meth­ods used when at­tach­ing the sleeve to the arm­hole are called con rollino and spalla cam­i­cia. Rollino is more clas­sic, of­fer­ing a closed seam where the cloth is turned down­wards which pro­duces a slightly raised ef­fect above the shoul­der. Spalla cam­i­cia is when you at­tach the sleeve and the shoul­der hor­i­zon­tally like on a shirt. The length of the jacket is some­what shorter and the lapels wider. The gorge, the seam where the lapels meet the col­lar, is higher than nor­mal. In­stead of a straight chest pocket many Neapoli­tan jack­ets have a curved pocket, a so-called barchetta which means ‘lit­tle boat’. An­other de­tail that you’ll find on more ca­sual jack­ets is the one-but­ton sleeve. The style is also known for its pref­er­ence for three but­tons although with an el­e­gant roll that sees the top but­ton rest­ing against the lapel and is not meant to be but­toned!

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