Ag at Large: Spears from Mexico wound asparagus crop

A burgeoning crop of early spring asparagus in Mexico is a major cause for traditional growers of the vegetable crop in California to abandon it.

A forced increase in the level of wages paid to harvesters helped confirm their decisions.

The combination of negative outlooks has caused the California Asparagus Commission in Stockton to suspend operations at the end of 2019. Suspending the commission’s program rather than shutting it down allows it to reinstate its activities at some point if its grower members decide to.

With less regulatory overruling, asparagus growers in Michigan and Washington are anticipating limited expansions in production. The Michigan crop has increased modestly but steadily since 2010, and Washington growers overcame a sharp production decline in 2010 to achieve a significant increase in 2016 and steady increases every year since.

The overall production and sales experience seems to indicate consumers are enthusiastic about asparagus. The amount of land and conditions in California where the crop has been produced remain constant, but regulations imposed by state agencies have helped drive a few growers out of the industry.

The characteristic peat soils near Stockton have been the major production area in California for the tender asparagus. The crop has done well in the Coachella and Imperial Valleys because early spring warmth in those locations hastens its development. Similar weather conditions in Mexico in the early spring have been basic to its growth there also.

Growth of asparagus in the Stockton area has been somewhat legendary. The light and airy soils adjacent to the San Joaquin-sacramento Delta seem compatible to the crop’s apparent characteristic of popping up uncontrollably and unpredictably across planted fields, leading hand harvesters to move constantly to capture the spears at their most tender and tastiest. Spears up to a foot in length have been known to pop up overnight. Freshness is best preserved if they’re harvested immediately by cutting them at the soil surface.

As the harvest window is limited, so is cooking time as well as the interval between purchase and preparation for eating. Surrounding recently purchased asparagus spears with a moist and cool cloth helps maintain freshness and taste. Experts recommend preparing the spears for a meal as soon after purchasing them as possible. The spears sensitivity to temperatures results in the suggestion from some cooking experts that the time be limited to only three minutes. Even a blanching time of less than a minute to six minutes can be sufficient, being aware the tender tips require shorter cooking or blanching time than the heavier lower portions of the spears.

Experts have determined the respiration rate – the time it takes the vegetable to “shut down” after being harvested – is about five times that of onions or potatoes, for example. Whatever is done to maintain freshness needs to be done quickly. Markets where asparagus is sold obviously create the most favorable conditions possible to maintain its freshness.

Food analysts have determined asparagus has a high content of vitamin K, 101 percent, and relatively strong amounts of folate, copper, vitamin B1 and selenium, down to 20 percent. Family or guests who might detect a slight bitterness in asparagus served to them, may be comforted to learn it’s linked to the monodesmocidic saponins that are part of every asparagus spear.

With ingredients like that it’s no wonder tender asparagus spears can penetrate and capture anybody’s appetite.