Post Tribune (Sunday)

Perfect pizza crust depends on spin, toss and technique

- Philip Potempa has published three cookbooks and is the director of marketing at Theatre at the Center. Mail questions to From the Farm, P.O. Box 68, San Pierre, IN 46374. Philip Potempa

The numbers prove pizza is popular in more than just the United States.

Since 1984, the month of October has been designated National Pizza Month as created by Gerry Durnell, publisher of Pizza Today magazine. October was selected because it is the month his magazine debuted in the same year.

According to crusty rival Pizza Quarterly Magazine, in 2017 “the world pizza market was $128 billion in sales, and in the U.S. it was $44 billion spread over 76,000 pizzerias.” The U.S. Department of Agricultur­e reports that “13 percent of the U.S. population age 2 and older consumes pizza on any given day.”

Pizza purists have debated for decades about whether it’s the crust, the sauce or the toppings that is the key component to making the best possible pizza, a menu staple which has been in the United States only since Italian immigrants came in large numbers starting around 1905.

Most culinary experts agree pizza, as it is traditiona­lly imagined today, was invented in the Naples area of Italy, with the word being a derivation of the Greek and Latin terms for “pita bread.” It wasn’t until after World War II, with the return of veterans who served in Italy, that pizza began to be introduced on American restaurant menus and the first popular pizzerias in Chicago and New York opened.

I’ve always been a pizza fan, and last week I was happy to learn even more about the dedicated craft of creating the allimporta­nt pizza crust from one of the students in the public speaking course I teach at Purdue University Northwest. Sophomore Cole Barzycki, 19, of Hebron, presented his speech on the topic of making pizza crust and the traditiona­l technique used to toss and spin the rolled dough once in the air to result in an ideal thickness and consistenc­y.

Barzycki, who is studying human resources management, works at Gelsosomo’s Pizzeria in Valparaiso making pizzas, with his specialty being the crusts. He emphasized that the basic ingredient­s used in the crust of the pizzas at Gelsosomo’s are typical of most pizza crusts. Gelsosomo’s was launched in 1979 by Chicago Southsider Tom Gelsosomo, who opened his first location in Portage and has 11 locations in Illinois, Indiana and Michigan.

Barzycki said Gelsosomo’s regards the ingredient­s in its signature “sweet sauce” as a closely guarded secret, and the informatio­n is even kept from the employees since the sauce is made off-site through an agreement with a manufactur­er who creates the sauce as a custom purchase agreement according to provided ingredient specificat­ions.

“Even though the pizza crust has these basic ingredient­s, the key factor of the taste and consistenc­y comes from how we hand-toss it and use a certain spin,” Barzycki said. “A great crust makes a great pizza.”

Despite perception­s, tossing a spinning pizza crust in the air isn’t just about entertainm­ent and theatrics.

“You never want to use your fingers, since that’s how holes are made in the dough,” he said. “Fingers are kept bent, so it’s really the knuckles that are used as the dough is spun around. I don’t even use the rolling pin much and instead use the spin- ning to allow the dough to expand and flatten to the right consistenc­y. The less flour and rolling needed assures the dough retains moisture. The spinning and air contact is what keeps the dough from remaining too sticky before it bakes.”

 ?? PHIL POTEMPA/POST-TRIBUNE ?? Cole Barzycki, 19, of Hebron, a sophomore at Purdue University Northwest, makes hand-tossed pizza crusts for Gelsosomo’s Pizzeria in Valparaiso.
PHIL POTEMPA/POST-TRIBUNE Cole Barzycki, 19, of Hebron, a sophomore at Purdue University Northwest, makes hand-tossed pizza crusts for Gelsosomo’s Pizzeria in Valparaiso.
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