Press-Telegram (Long Beach)

Sauced Up

- 11308 South St., Cerritos; 562-403-6200, saucedupce­rritos Merrill Shindler is a Los Angeles-based freelance dining critic. Email

Most of the menu at this hotbed of poutine — and poutine wannabe dishes — is listed under the heading “Loaded Fries,” which include Classic Canadian Poutine, followed by Poketine (ahi poke poutine topped with lots of cheddar and spicy kewpie mayo), Lobster Fries, two types of Pork Belly Fries, Loco Moco Loaded Fries, Philly Special Fries, Chicken Karaage Fries, Breakfast Hangover Fries, Carne Asada Fries, Korean Bulgogi Fries, Cajun Shrimp Fries and American Surf & Turf Fries.

The Tots are listed as “Sidekicks,” along with Mac and Cheese Bites, and Fried Cheese Curds. By comparison, they’re almost ordinary. But just almost. Combined with the other dishes, and they’re a crunch fried counterpoi­nt to other crunchy fried goodness.

This is definitely not a diet restaurant — until someone comes up with a Fried Food Diet. I’m waiting.

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