Press-Telegram (Long Beach)

Dog Haus Biergarten

- 210 E. 3rd St., Long Beach; 562-901-4287, www. doghaus.com

The beer menu here is, in what’s becoming an increasing­ly grand tradition, a fine collection of brews you’ve heard of — and brews that ring no bells at all. Hanger 24 Alt Beer? Iron Fist Renegade Blonde? Avery Joe’s Premium American Lager? Darned if I know, but I’m happy to try them all. Though if I do feel confused, there’s always Pabst Blue Ribbon. When in doubt, turn to your roots.

But, you know, ultimately the beer is just a lubricant for the dogs. And the dogs are many — and kind of wonderful, if a dog is what you’re up to. The dogs are actually divided into all-beef, skinless “Haus Dogs,” and quirky-as-couldbe “Haus Sausages” — the latter packing more of a punch, and more heft than the former, though with enough toppings, they both need two hands to eat.

The most popular of the dogs seems to be the Sooo Cali, which would be overthe-top at Dodger Stadium, but here it’s one of the simplest of the creations — topped with “only” arugula, crispy onion, avocado, tomato and a spicy aioli mayo.

I need to add that the dogs are served on toasted King’s Hawaiian bread, which is sweeter than most hot dog buns, and somewhat softer — and also admirably delicious. It’s a fine touch; it makes the bun worth eating as much as all the stuff crammed into it. And let me tell you — that stuff tends to be so much the whole concoction can begin to crumble if you let it sit around too long. When the buns get too

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