Pan sauce is a harried cook's fast friend
Don't let their elegant fancy-restaurant flavors fool you. Pan sauces can spell survival for time-challenged home cooks. At the heart of these sauces are the caramelized drippings at the bottom of the pan left after sautéing. Adding a small amount of liquid loosens those browned bits, often wine, port or vinegar.
Quickly that's cooked down. Then, if you want — you don't have to — you can add broth or concentrated broth, such as demiglace (rich, brown sauce that has been reduced until very thick, available at some specialty markets and online). That's cooked down, and a luscious thickener can be added, such as butter or cream. The process happens very quickly on medium-high or high heat.
Chicken piccata is one example. The pounded-thin chicken breasts cook quickly in a hot pan. After they are sidelined to plates, the pan sauce is made by adding a mix of wine, lemon juice, zest and butter. Fresh dill and parsley finish off the sauce, adding a welcome herbaceous note.
Dilled chicken piccata
Yield: 2 servings
INGREDIENTS
2boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 12 ounces)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 cup dry white wine Minced zest of 1/2 lemon 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh dill 2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh parsley Cook's notes: If desired, add 2 tablespoons drained capers to sauce, along with the wine. If you want thicker sauce, lightly dredge chicken in flour before sautéing.
PROCEDURE
1. One at a time, put chicken breasts between 2pieces of plastic wrap and pound with meat pounder or bottom of sturdy pan, using just enough force to gently spread meat without tearing it, until each piece is 1/4-inch thick and about 5 inches wide and 6 inches long. Season both sides of chicken with salt and pepper.
2. Heat olive oil in 10- to 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until oil just barely begins to smoke. Using tongs, lower chicken breasts into oil. Cook until lightly browned, 2-3 minutes on each side. Check for doneness: Cut into thickest part with paring knife and check color; no pink should remain. Transfer chicken to warmed dinner plates.
3. Pour off any oil in skillet, leaving browned bits in pan, then pour in wine and stir to dislodge browned bits. Cook over medium-high heat until wine boils down to half its volume. Add lemon zest, juice and butter; swirl pan off heat until butter melts and combines with sauce. Stir in dill and parsley. Taste and add additional salt or pepper as needed. Spoon sauce over chicken.
Source: “The Herbfarm Cookbook,” by Jerry Traunfeld (Scribner, $40)