Quilt­ing Ba­sics •

The fol­low­ing is a ref­er­ence guide. For more in­for­ma­tion, con­sult a com­pre­hen­sive quilt­ing book.

Quilter's World - - Contents -


Appliqué Fusible Appliqué All tem­plates in Quilter's World are re­versed for use with this tech­nique. 1. Trace the in­structed num­ber of tem­plates 1/4" apart onto the pa­per side of pa­per-backed fusible web. Cut apart the tem­plates, leav­ing a mar­gin around each, and fuse to the wrong side of the fab­ric fol­low­ing fusible web man­u­fac­turer's in­struc­tions. 2. Cut out the appliqué pieces on the traced lines, re­move pa­per back­ing and fuse to the back­ground re­fer­ring to the appliqué mo­tif given. 3. Fin­ish appliqué raw edges with a straight, satin, blan­ket, zigzag or blind­hem ma­chine stitch with match­ing or in­vis­i­ble thread. Turned- Edge Appliqué 1. Trace the printed re­versed tem­plates onto tem­plate plas­tic. Flip the tem­plate over and mark as the right side. 2. Po­si­tion the tem­plate, right side up, on the right side of fab­ric and lightly trace, spac­ing images 1/2" apart. Cut apart, leav­ing a 1/4" mar­gin around the traced lines. 3. Clip curves and press edges 1/4" to the wrong side around the appliqué shape. 4. Re­fer­ring to the appliqué mo­tif, pin or baste appliqué shapes to the back­ground. 5. Hand-stitch shapes in place us­ing a blind stitch and thread to match, or ma­chine-stitch us­ing a short blind hem­stitch and ei­ther match­ing or in­vis­i­ble thread. Bor­ders Most Quilter's World pat­terns give an ex­act size to cut bor­ders. You may check those sizes by com­par­ing them to the hor­i­zon­tal and ver­ti­cal cen­ter mea­sure­ments of your quilt top. Straight Bor­ders 1. Mark the cen­ters of the side bor­ders and quilt top sides. 2. Stitch bor­ders to quilt top sides with right sides to­gether, match­ing raw edges and cen­ter marks, us­ing a 1/4" seam. Press seams to­ward bor­ders. 3. Re­peat with top and bot­tom bor­der lengths. Mitered Bor­ders 1. Add at least twice the bor­der width to the bor­der lengths in­structed to cut. 2. Cen­ter and sew the side bor­ders to the quilt, be­gin­ning and end­ing stitch­ing 1/4" from the quilt cor­ner and back­stitch­ing (Fig­ure 1). Re­peat with the top and bot­tom bor­ders. 3. Fold and pin quilt right sides to­gether at a 45-de­gree an­gle on one cor­ner (Fig­ure 2). Place a straight­edge along the fold and lightly mark a line across the bor­der ends.

4. Stitch along the line, back­stitch­ing to se­cure. Trim seam to 1/4" and press open (Fig­ure 3).

Quilt Back­ing & Bat­ting

We sug­gest that you cut your back­ing and bat­ting 8" larger than the fin­ished quilt-top size. If pre­par­ing the back­ing from stan­dard-width fabrics, re­move the sel­vages and sew two or three lengths to­gether; press seams open. If us­ing 108"-wide fab­ric, trim to size on the straight grain of the fab­ric.

Pre­pare bat­ting the same size as your back­ing. You can pur­chase prepack­aged sizes or bat­tings by the yard and trim to size.


1. Press quilt top on both sides and trim all loose threads.

2. Make a quilt sand­wich by lay­er­ing the back­ing right side down, bat­ting and quilt top cen­tered right side up on flat sur­face and smooth out. Pin or baste lay­ers to­gether to hold.

3. Mark quilt­ing de­sign on quilt top and quilt as de­sired by hand or ma­chine. Note: If you are send­ing your quilt to a pro­fes­sional quilter, con­tact them for specifics about pre­par­ing your quilt for quilt­ing. 4. When quilt­ing is com­plete, re­move pins or bast­ing. Trim bat­ting and back­ing edges even with raw edges of quilt top.

Bind­ing the Quilt

1. Join bind­ing strips on short ends with di­ag­o­nal seams to make one long strip; trim seams to 1/4" and press seams open (Fig­ure 4).

2. Fold 1" of one short end to wrong side and press. Fold the bind­ing strip in half with wrong sides to­gether along length, again re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 4; press.

3. Start­ing about 3" from the folded short end, sew bind­ing to quilt top edges, match­ing raw edges and us­ing a 1/4" seam. Stop stitch­ing 1/4" from cor­ner and back­stitch (Fig­ure 5).

4. Fold bind­ing up at a 45-de­gree an­gle to seam and then down even with quilt edges, form­ing a pleat at cor­ner, re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 6.

5. Re­sume stitch­ing from cor­ner edge as shown in Fig­ure 6, down quilt side, back­stitch­ing 1/4" from next cor­ner. Re­peat, mi­ter­ing all cor­ners, stitch­ing to within 3" of start­ing point.

6. Trim bind­ing end long enough to tuck in­side start­ing end and com­plete stitch­ing (Fig­ure 7).

7. Fold bind­ing to quilt back and stitch in place by hand or ma­chine to com­plete your quilt.


Appliqué: Ad­ding fab­ric mo­tifs to a foun­da­tion fab­ric by hand or ma­chine (see Appliqué sec­tion of Ba­sic Tech­niques).

Bast­ing: This tem­po­rar­ily se­cures lay­ers of quilt­ing ma­te­ri­als to­gether with safety pins, thread or a spray ad­he­sive in prepa­ra­tion for quilt­ing the lay­ers.

Uses a long, straight stitch to hand- or ma­chine-stitch one el­e­ment to another, hold­ing the el­e­ments in place dur­ing con­struc­tion and usu­ally re­moved af­ter con­struc­tion.

Bat­ting: An in­su­lat­ing ma­te­rial made in a va­ri­ety of fiber con­tents that is used be­tween the quilt top and back to pro­vide ex­tra warmth and loft.

Bind­ing: A fin­ish­ing strip of fab­ric sewn to the outer raw edges of a quilt to cover them.

Straight-grain bind­ing strips, cut on the cross­wise straight grain of the fab­ric (see Straight & Bias Grain Lines il­lus­tra­tion on page 112), are com­monly used.

Bias bind­ing strips are cut at a 45-de­gree an­gle to the straight grain of the fab­ric. They are used when bind­ing is be­ing added to curved edges.

Block: The ba­sic quilt­ing unit that is re­peated to com­plete the quilt's de­sign com­po­si­tion. Blocks can be pieced, ap­pliquéd or solid and are usu­ally square or rec­tan­gu­lar in shape.

Bor­der: The frame of a quilt's cen­tral de­sign used to vis­ually com­plete the de­sign and give the eye a place to rest.

Fab­ric grain: The fibers that run ei­ther par­al­lel (length­wise grain) or per­pen­dic­u­lar (cross­wise grain) to the fab­ric sel­vage are straight grain.

Bias is any di­ag­o­nal line be­tween the length­wise or cross­wise grain. At these an­gles the fab­ric is less sta­ble and stretches eas­ily. The true bias of a wo­ven fab­ric is a 45-de­gree an­gle

Fig­ure 1

Fig­ure 2

Fig­ure 4

Fig­ure 7

Fig­ure 6

4" Fig­ure 3

Fig­ure 5

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