Pa­per Piec­ing

Quilter's World - - Warm Colors, Cozy Quilts -

Pa­per piec­ing al­lows a quilter to make blocks with odd-shaped and/ or small pieces and more pre­cise cor­ners. Fab­ric pieces are sewn to­gether onto the re­v­erse side of a pa­per-piec­ing pat­tern, and then the pa­per is care­fully re­moved when the block is com­pleted. You may have to re­think how you piece when us­ing this tech­nique and it does re­quire a lit­tle more yardage.

1. Make same-size copies of the pa­per-piec­ing pat­tern as directed in the pat­tern. There are sev­eral choices in trans­par­ent pa­pers as well as wa­ter-sol­u­ble pa­pers that can be used, which are avail­able at your lo­cal of­fice supply store, quilt shop or on­line. Some pa­pers can be used in your printer.

2. Cut out the pat­terns leav­ing a mar­gin around the out­side bold lines as shown in Fig­ure A. All pat­terns are re­versed on the pa­per copies. Pat­tern color choices can be writ­ten in each num­bered space on the marked side of each copy.

3. When cut­ting fab­ric for pa­per piec­ing, the pieces do not have to be the ex­act size and shape of the area to be cov­ered. Cut fab­ric pieces the gen­eral shape and 1/4"–1/2" larger than the de­sign area to be cov­ered. This makes pa­per piec­ing a good way to use up scraps.

4. With the printed side of the pat­tern fac­ing you, fold along each line of the pat­tern as shown in Fig­ure B, creas­ing the stitch­ing lines. This will help in trim­ming the fab­ric seam al­lowances and in re­mov­ing the pa­per when you are fin­ished stitch­ing.

Note: You can also ma­chine stitch along the lines with a bast­ing stitch­ing and no thread to per­fo­rate the pa­per.

5. Turn the pa­per pat­tern over with the un­marked side fac­ing you and po­si­tion fab­ric in­di­cated on pat­tern right side up over the space marked 1. Hold the pa­per up to a win­dow or over a light box to make sure that the fab­ric over­laps all sides of space 1 at least 1/4" as shown in Fig­ure C from the printed side of the pat­tern. Pin to hold fab­ric in place. Note: You can also use a light touch of glue stick. Too much glue will make the pa­per dif­fi­cult to re­move.

6. Turn the pa­per over with the right side of the pa­per fac­ing you, and fold the pa­per along the lines be­tween sec­tions 1 and 2. Trim fab­ric to about 1/4" from the folded edge as shown in Fig­ure D. 7. Place the sec­ond fab­ric in­di­cated right sides to­gether with first piece. Fab­ric edges should be even along line be­tween spa­ces 1 and 2 as shown in Fig­ure E. Fold fab­ric over and check to see if sec­ond fab­ric piece will cover space 2.

8. With the right side of the pa­per fac­ing you, hold fab­ric pieces to­gether and stitch along the line be­tween spa­ces 1 and 2 as shown in Fig­ure F us­ing a very small stitch length (18–20 stitches per inch).

Note: Us­ing a smaller stitch length will make re­mov­ing pa­per eas­ier be­cause it cre­ates a tear line at the seam. Al­ways be­gin and end seam by sewing two to three stitches beyond the line. You do not need to back­stitch. Start sewing at the solid out­side line of the pat­tern when the be­gin­ning of the seam is at the edge of the pat­tern.

10. Con­tinue trim­ming and sewing pieces in nu­mer­i­cal or­der un­til the pat­tern is com­pletely cov­ered. Make sure pieces along the outer edge ex­tend past the solid line to al­low for a 1/4" seam al­lowance as shown in Fig­ure H.

11. When the whole block is sewn, press the block and trim all ex­cess fab­ric from the block along the out­side-edge solid line of pa­per pat­tern as shown in Fig­ure I.

12. Af­ter stitch­ing blocks to­gether, care­fully re­move the back­ing pa­per from com­pleted blocks and press seams. You can also staystitch 1/8" from the outer edge of the com­pleted block. Care­fully re­move back­ing pa­per and press seams. Then com­plete quilt top assem­bly.


1. Pre­pare 36 pa­per-pieced black pais­ley halves with black pais­ley 6/7 pieces and 36 tan/rust halves with tan/rust 6/7 pieces re­fer­ring to pat­tern and Pa­per Piec­ing on page 60 and Fig­ure 1.

2. Se­lect and join one each black pais­ley and tan/rust half to com­plete one Au­tumn Fan­tasy block as shown in Fig­ure 2; press. 3. Re­peat step 2 to com­plete a to­tal of 36 Au­tumn Fan­tasy blocks.


Re­fer to the Assem­bly Di­a­gram for block and bor­der place­ment.

1. Ar­range and join six Au­tumn Fan­tasy blocks to make a row; press. Re­peat to make a to­tal of six rows.

2. Join the rows to com­plete the quilt cen­ter.

3. Join the A strips on the short ends to make a long strip; press. Sub­cut strip into four 63" A strips.

4. Re­peat step 3 to make four each 63" B and C strips.

5. Sew an A strip to a B strip to a C strip to make a bor­der strip; press. Re­peat to make a to­tal of four bor­der strips.

6. Cen­ter and sew a strip to each side of the quilt cen­ter, stop­ping stitch­ing 1/4" from each cor­ner of the quilt cen­ter.

7. Miter cor­ner seams to com­plete the quilt top re­fer­ring to Quilt­ing Ba­sics on page 110.

8. Cre­ate a quilt sand­wich re­fer­ring to Quilt­ing Ba­sics on page 110. 9. Quilt as de­sired.

10. Bind re­fer­ring to Quilt­ing Ba­sics on page 110 to fin­ish.

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