Quilting on Your Machine The Inside Scoop: Edge-to-Edge Quilting
Learn the art of allover quilting.
Edge-to- edge or allover quilting is a single pattern stitched freemotion over a quilt, disregarding the piecing of the quilt top. This is an excellent technique for beginner free-motion quilters because there is only one pattern to master. This quilting holds the three layers of the quilt together beautifully without the stress of custom quilting. Beginner quilters might know what edge-to- edge quilting is supposed to look like, but few are brave enough to ask, “How do you actually do that?”
Dividing the Quilt
In general, when I'm machine quilting, I prefer to quilt from the center of the quilt and work my way toward the edges. This has two benefits:
First, if there is extra fullness in the backing, batting or top of the quilt, it can be pushed to the edge while quilting to avoid stitching in any puckers or pleats.
Secondly, approximately half of the quilt will be inside of the sewing machine opening when stitching the middle column. When stitching each subsequent section, less of the quilt will be inside of the machine opening and it will be easier and easier to maneuver the quilt.
When quilting an edge-to- edge design, however, I don't simply make a knot in the center of my quilt and start quilting. Instead, I find it easiest to divide my quilt into columns that are 9"–12" wide (depending upon the size of the machine opening) and start quilting at the top edge of the middle column of the quilt. I roll the quilt so that the middle column is under the needle, make a starting knot in the batting at the top of the section, stitch my quilting design on the exposed area of the quilt, and then make an ending knot in the batting at the bottom edge of my quilt. Even though I'm free-motion quilting and could proceed by quilting from the bottom of the next section back up to the top, I prefer to quilt from top to bottom each time because, that way, the unquilted area is visible in front of the machine. I have the extra effort of repositioning the quilt between each section, but the increased visibility makes it all worth it!
I unroll my quilt so I can stitch the area to the right of the finished center section, top to bottom. I continue unrolling and quilting top to bottom until I've reached the edge of the quilt.
Once the first half of the quilt is complete, I rotate the quilt 180 degrees so that the quilted sections are on the left side and the unquilted area is inside the machine opening. Then I start quilting from the top to bottom in the section closest to the center. I continue unrolling and quilting top to bottom until I've reached the outside edge of my quilt.
Blurring the Lines
When quilting in sections, be aware of the transitions between quilted areas. If I'm not careful, there will be a noticeable unquilted strip between the columns of quilting.
As I quilt each area of the quilt, I make sure not to end my quilting pattern in a straight line at each side. I want the next section of quilting to overlap the first section so that no straight lines are noticeable.
This doesn't have to be stressful! It can be as planned as the diagram above or as simple as leaving a little extra room to tuck a design from the next column in between two motifs in the current stitching area. The goal is to not have noticeable straight edges on the quilting areas.
Thread Path
My students often ask, “How do you quilt a pattern all over a quilt? Do you quilt back and forth? Up and down? I don't know what to do!” I first remind them that there is no wrong way to quilt a quilt.
For more practical help, I recommend wandering around the quilting section, up and down, back and forth, until the area is filled.
My students will ask, “But what if I end up stuck in a corner? What if I accidentally cross my lines?” It breaks my heart to tell them that they will definitely end up stuck in a corner at some point and will probably cross their lines too. Then I get to tell them that it's all OK. The more experience they have with a pattern, the less frequently they will quilt themselves into corners.
If quilters do get stuck in corners, they have a few choices. They can: • Pick out the stitches and restart in a better area to maneuver the pattern. • Make a knot, end the pattern and restart somewhere else. • Backtrack or stitch across the previous pattern until able to stitch again. Quilters who stitch edge-to-edge designs often choose to use matching thread. Crossing lines, backtracking and restarting won't show much when stitching on a pieced quilt using matching thread.
Now that you have hints and tricks to help you successfully quilt edge-toedge patterns on your quilt tops, consider stitching this Holly & Berries pattern!
Holly & Berries
1. Stitch a straight line. 2. Stitch three curves above the line—up and away from the line, parallel to the line, and back down toward the line.
3. Stitch three curves below the line— down and away from the line, parallel to the line, and back up toward the line. 4. Stitch a berry at the end of the holly leaf. 5. Reverse stitching direction and stitch a second berry. 6. Reverse direction again and stitch a third berry.
7. Stitch a series of holly leaves and berries as you wander around your quilting area.