Rose Gar­den

Turn your scraps and a bit of crazy-patch piec­ing into a rose gar­den for your din­ing-room ta­ble.

Quilter's World - - News -

MA­TE­RI­ALS

• Scraps light to medium pink and red, dark red and green, and gold tonals and small prints • 1 fat quar­ter medium green tonal • 5/ 8 yard green leaf tonal • Back­ing to size • Bat­ting to size • 1 (8" x 12") rec­tan­gle bat­ting • Thread • Tem­plate ma­te­rial • 10 sheets foun­da­tion paper or

1/2 yard muslin • Ba­sic sewing tools and sup­plies

CUT­TING

Pre­pare tem­plates for A and B pieces; cut as directed on each pat­tern. Pre­pare a tem­plate for the leaf; cut as per in­struc­tions. From green leaf tonal: • Cut 1 (61/2" by fab­ric width) strip. Sub­cut strip into 2 (61/2") C squares and 2 (21/4" by re­main­ing fab­ric width) bind­ing strips. • Cut 4 (21/4" by fab­ric width) bind­ing strips. From foun­da­tion paper or muslin: • Cut 4 (81/2") squares. • Cut 6 (61/2") squares.

COM­PLET­ING THE BLOCKS

1. Select one 61/2" foun­da­tion square and one A piece. 2. Cen­ter the A piece on the foun­da­tion square. 3. Choose a small light pink scrap and place right side down on the A piece with one edge along one side of A and stitch as shown in Fig­ure 1. 4. Flip the light pink piece to the right side and press flat as shown in Fig­ure 2. 5. Choose a medium pink scrap and re­peat steps 3 and 4, stitch­ing the pink piece to the ad­ja­cent side of the cen­ter, mov­ing clock­wise as shown in Fig­ure 3.

6. Af­ter stitch­ing, fold the foun­da­tion back at the seam line and trim just the fab­ric to a 1/4" seam al­lowance as shown in Fig­ure 4. Note: You may have to clip a few stitches in the first seam to re­lease the fab­ric for trim­ming as shown in Fig­ure 5.

7. Re­peat step 6 with pink and light red scraps un­til you have stitched pieces all around the A piece.

8. Start the sec­ond round with medium red scraps, re­peat­ing the same method as the first round.

9. Add dark red scraps for the third round. Add dark green scraps to cor­ners.

10. Turn the pieced square over and trim the ex­cess fab­rics even with the edge of the foun­da­tion square to com­plete one Small Rose block as shown in Fig­ure 6.

11. Re­peat all steps to com­plete a to­tal of six Small Rose blocks.

12. Re­peat all steps with the B pieces and the 81/2" foun­da­tion squares to com­plete four Large Rose blocks.

COM­PLET­ING THE LEAVES

1. Us­ing the pre­pared leaf tem­plate, draw two leaf shapes on one end of the wrong side of the medium green tonal. Fold the fab­ric in half with right sides to­gether and the traced leaves on top and pin to the 8" x 12" bat­ting rec­tan­gle as shown in Fig­ure 7.

2. Sew around the leaf shapes on the traced lines, leav­ing the straight bot­tom edge open as shown in Fig­ure 8.

3. Re­fer­ring to Fig­ure 9, cut out 1/8" from the stitch­ing lines and along the un­stitched traced line; trim the tip and clip curves. 4. Turn right side out through the open­ing; press edges flat. 5. Re­fer­ring to pat­tern, stitch vein lines on each leaf, sewing along the marked lines twice to add def­i­ni­tion; set aside.

COM­PLET­ING THE RUN­NER

Re­fer to the As­sem­bly Di­a­gram for all con­struc­tion steps.

1. Cen­ter a leaf on one side of a C square, match­ing raw edges. Baste to se­cure.

2. Join two Large Rose blocks to make a large block unit; press seam open. Re­peat with two Small Rose blocks to make a small block unit. Re­peat to make a sec­ond small block unit.

3. Ar­range and join the block units with the C/leaf units and the re­main­ing Large and Small Rose blocks; press seams in the di­rec­tions in­di­cated by ar­rows in Fig­ure 10.

4. Staystitch the edges 3/16" from edge all around.

5. Care­fully re­move paper if used as the foun­da­tion.

6. Cre­ate a quilt sand­wich re­fer­ring to Quilt­ing Ba­sics on page 94.

7. Quilt as de­sired. Do not trim ex­cess af­ter quilt­ing.

8. At­tach the bind­ing in the same way as for straight-sided quilts re­fer­ring to Quilt­ing Ba­sics on page 94, ex­cept when you ap­proach the in­side cor­ners. De­ter­mine the point where the bind­ing seam should turn and mark it; clip al­most to the mark. Stitch to this point and stop with the nee­dle in the quilt. Raise the presser foot and re­align the run­ner so the edges line up in a straight line with the bind­ing strip flat along that edge. Lower the presser foot and con­tinue stitch­ing as shown in Fig­ure 11.

9. Af­ter bind­ing has been at­tached, trim the bat­ting and back­ing even with the run­ner top. Cut a small notch in the bind­ing only in the seam al­lowance at the pivot point of the in­side cor­ners as shown in Fig­ure 12.

10. Turn the bind­ing to the back side and hand-stitch in place. The in­side cor­ners will form a tucked miter on the front and back sides. Take a few stitches in the tucks to se­cure the miter as you sew around to fin­ish.

Large Rose 8" x 8" Fin­ished Block Make 4

Small Rose 6" x 6" Fin­ished Block Make 6

Fig­ure 2

Fig­ure 3

Fig­ure 1

Fig­ure 5

Fig­ure 6

Fig­ure 10

Fig­ure 9

Fig­ure 11

Fig­ure 7

Fig­ure 8

Fig­ure 4

Fig­ure 12

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