BINDING INSIDE CORNERS
Use either bias or straight single-fold binding to bind projects with inside corners. Single-fold binding helps decrease the bulk of the seams in those corners where blocks join. Single-fold bias binding stretches to accommodate the stretch on the inside corner. The following method also works with a double-layered binding.
1. To make single-fold binding, cut 13/4"-wide strips, either bias or straight of grain, from the binding fabric. Join the strips using diagonal seams on the short ends to make a continuous strip the length of the circumference of the project.
2. Fold 1/4" to the wrong side of the binding along one long edge and press to hold.
3. Staystitch close to the 1/4" seam allowance through the layers of your project at each inside corner as shown in Figure A.
4. Clip into the corner almost to the seam allowance as shown in Figure B.
5. Leaving a 12" tail, match the raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of the project top and stitch using a 1/4" seam allowance, mitering at the outer corners.
6. Sew the binding to the edge of each inside corner, leaving the needle down at the clip as shown in Figure C.
7. Turn the project top and sew along the adjacent side of the inside corner.
8. Continue sewing binding all around, overlapping at the beginning and end.
9. Clip into each inside corner of binding just to the stitching line referring to Figure D.
10. Sew the binding down at the inside corners, referring to Figure E; fold down the left side and then the right side and hand-stitch the miter that forms. Turn to the back side and repeat to complete the binding. ●
There are many traditional quilt blocks and free-form designs that use curves. Like many other quilting techniques, a few tips and a little practice will make curved piecing less of a struggle and open up your design choices.
Careful cutting and marking of curved pieces is critical to having a smooth curved seam. Curved seams are bias edges and will stretch easily without careful handling.
Curves With Templates
1. Make templates from template plastic or freezer paper for traditional blocks. You can also purchase acrylic templates for most common curved shapes in different sizes. Or, use a die-cut system to cut multiple shapes accurately.
2. Be sure to follow the template as closely as possible when cutting pieces. If using a rotary blade, use the smallest rotary blade size available to easily negotiate the curves. If using scissors, move the fabric/ template instead of the scissors when cutting. Be sure your scissors are sharp.
3. Find the centers of both the convex (outer curve) and concave (inner curve) edges by folding the pieces in half, finger-press and mark with a pin. Purchased templates and die-cut pieces should have center notches. Match the centers and pin with the convex curve on the top referring to the Drunkard’s Path block in Figure A.
4. Match and pin the seam ends. Then pin liberally between the seam ends and center, matching the seam edges and referring again to Figure A.
5. Slowly stitch pieces together an inch or two at a time, removing pins and keeping seam edges even.
6. Clip only the concave seam allowance if necessary. Press seam allowances flat toward the concave curve (Figure B).
7. Common traditional blocks like Apple Core and Robbing Peter to Pay Paul are constructed in the same manner.
2. For single or undulating curves, mark across the cut pieces with curved edges matching (Figure D). Make shallow clips in the concave areas referring again to Figure D.
3. Pin the curved edges together matching the marks (Figure E). Slowly stitch pieces together an inch or two at a time, removing pins and keeping seam edges even.
4. Free-form quilters use single and undulating curves to add movement or a landscape feel to their quilts. ●