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creamy sauce to the point where you can lose track of its identity, but you always know it’s there. Unless you don’t want meat, of course. The dish can be as vegetarian or vegan as you want it to be.

The recipe calls for blending pickles with mayo and sour cream, but the first time I made it I forgot to buy pickles. Instead, I used some home-made pickled cherry bomb peppers and a jar of relish. It wasn’t the same, but when you make small tweaks to an amazing recipe you sometimes achieve dazzling results. I enjoyed the heat of the pickled peppers, and the coupling of “relish” and “peppers” in the same sentence seemed appropriat­e.

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