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Daikon Broth

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There is a lot you can do with this daikon broth in addition to making naengmyeon. Last night I used it to make a pot of rice, and that captivatin­g flavor impregnate­d every grain.

1 pound daikon, peeled and sliced into half-inch rounds

4 ounces of peeled ginger, sliced to about a quarter-inch-thick

1 large onion, cut into quarters

1 pound beef brisket or similarly lean, tough red meat (optional)

If you skip the brisket, replace a quart of the water with beef (or vegetable) stock, or use bouillon cubes

Add the ingredient­s to a pasta basket and set it in a pot with five quarts of water. Bring the pot to a boil and then turn it down to a simmer, and cook for two hours. Remove the pasta basket and let the broth cool to room temperatur­e, and then chill in the fridge. Allow the brisket to cool and slice it thinly, toss the slices with salt, and refrigerat­e them until it’s time to assemble the dish.

While the broth simmers, make the daikon pickles, boil the eggs, and prepare the noodles and vegetables as follows.

Pickled Daikon

8 ounces daikon radish, peeled

½ teaspoon salt

6 tablespoon­s cider vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper

Use the peeler to cut the radish lengthwise into ribbons. Place the daikon ribbons in a bowl, and toss with the salt. Add the remaining ingredient­s. Toss again, and refrigerat­e until it’s time to assemble the bowl.

Hard Boiled Egg

4 eggs

Bring a quart of water to a boil. Gently lower the eggs into the water and cook for a minute at full boil. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for another 12 minutes. Remove the eggs and transfer them to a bowl with two quarts of cold water, and let them cool for 15 minutes. Peel under running water.

Noodles and veggies

½ pound soba noodles

Baby bok choy, spinach or other greens

Boil 4 quarts of water in a pot with the pasta basket insert. You can also cook the noodles and vegetables in the radish stock.

Cook the noodles per the instructio­ns on the package. Then remove the insert and plunge the noodles into cold water. Drain and set aside.

Briefly blanch the vegetables you intend to use, according to how much time they need. For bok choy and spinach, a minute in the boiling water is all you need.

Naengmyeon

Here we assemble all of the previously prepared ingredient­s into bowls.

As discussed above, the brisket was cooked with the broth. But this time of year, when the garlic is fresh, I use beef bouillon in the daikon stock and go with a more tender cut of meat for the final dish. If you go this route, slice the meat thinly and fry it with minced garlic in olive oil with salt and pepper, and add these slices to the final bowl.

4 servings

2 trays ice cubes or similar amount of crushed ice

1 pound cooked soba noodles

1 pound sliced cooked brisket

4 hard-boiled eggs, sliced in half lengthwise

1 pound cooked bok choy, spinach or other green vegetables

1 pound pickled daikon radish

1 large cucumber, peeled and sliced

Sliced jalapeno, if you like spicy

Soy sauce

Rice vinegar

Chili paste

Divide the ice among the bowls. Add the noodles and give them a twist with your fingers or a fork, so they make a bit of a spiral pattern.

Artfully place the proteins, fruits and vegetables in little piles atop the noodles and ice. Place these bowls on the table and ladle in the broth. Season with a splash of soy sauce, and leave the bottle on the table, along with cider vinegar and pepper paste, so the diners can personaliz­e their salt and acid levels.

If you’re extra-thirsty, consider slurping the broth out of the bowl straight away, without chewing anything. Then refill the bowl, adjust the salt and sour, and begin eating in earnest.

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