PERFECT BOILED FINGERLINGS
Put whole fingerlings in a pot and cover with cold water. Now add salt, starting with 1.5 tablespoons per 4 cups of water, and then sprinkle in more until the water tastes as salty as the sea. (Don’t worry: Most will go down the drain, and the little that’s absorbed will make all the difference.) Add aromatics: garlic, a halved onion, carrots, celery, a bay leaf, and fresh herbs such as rosemary, thyme, and sage. Bring water to a gentle simmer and cook anywhere from 25 minutes to two hours, until you can slide a fork into a potato without resistance. (The larger the potatoes and batch, the longer they’ll take.) Turn the heat off; leave the potatoes until the water is warm. Discard the aromatics and herbs, drain the potatoes, and toss with melted butter or olive oil and minced parsley, chives, and/or tarragon. Add black pepper and salt to taste.