WICKER PARK / BUCKTOWN

Red Eye Chicago - - Around Town -

The Delta Chicago abounds with tamales, but The Delta man­ages to set it­self apart by serv­ing Mis­sis­sippi Delta tamales, a dis­tinct style that, if it weren’t com­pletely ob­vi­ous by now, orig­i­nated in the Mis­sis­sippi Delta (ba­si­cally, the north­west part of that state). They dif­fer from ubiq­ui­tous Mex­i­can tamales in that they are con­structed from corn­meal in­stead of masa (nix­ta­mal­ized corn), and cooked in a liq­uid in­stead of be­ing steamed. The reg­u­lar red hot tamales ($5) come three to an or­der and are as­tound­ingly ten­der, all with­out a trace of grit­ti­ness, each morsel soaked in a spicy red tomato and chile broth. Also check­out the cat­fish (grilled not fried), which is fin­ished with co­rian­der, pars­ley, dill, tar­ragon, chives and mar­jo­ram, herbs that bring fresh­ness and depth to the dish.

Open: Din­ner and late night, daily. Prices: En­trees $5 to $18. 1745 W. North Ave., 773-360-1793. — N.K.

Langhe Mar­ket Con­ceived by Italiantrained chef Cameron Grant and owner Aldo Zaninotto (both of Lo­gan Square’s Os­te­ria Langhe), Langhe Mar­ket traf­fics in meat. You’ll find so-called “off cuts”— sweet­breads, tripe and ox­tail, for ex­am­ple—next to a smat­ter­ing of lovely pas­tas Pork & Mindy’s Jeff Mauro, the star of “Sand­wich King” on Food Net­work, picked his na­tive Chicago for his first res­tau­rant; more likely than not, he’ll be the guy tak­ing your or­der or mak­ing your meal. A lineup of sand­wiches fea­ture smoked meats, house-made sauces and Pig Candy, Mauro’s name for brown­sugar-glazed ba­con.

Open: Lunch and din­ner daily. Prices: Sand­wiches $8 and up. 1623 N. Mil­wau­kee Ave., 773-799-8759. — Marissa Con­rad

JOSE M. OSORIO/TRI­BUNE FILE

The isola cat­fish en­tree at The Delta.

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