AN­DER­SON­VILLE

Red Eye Chicago - - Around Town -

Passerotto Cute as a but­ton and loaded with charm, Passerotto serves up “fun Korean fare” with a smidgen of Ital­ian from chef-owner Jen­nifer Kim. The din­ing room co­zily seats 42, and in­tact are the worn brick walls, tiled floor and pressedtin ceil­ing. Well-com­posed small plates are con­sis­tently in­ter­est­ing, ap­proach­able with a touch of the un­ex­pected. Prices are low enough to en­cour­age mul­ti­ple tastes. And the large plates are fam­ily-style plat­ters that add a com­mu­nal el­e­ment to din­ing. Ca­vatelli mixes Ital­ian pasta with Asian fla­vors, in­clud­ing a smoky nori but­ter sauce and crisp-fried wakame. Kim does nice work with raw fish, sea­son­ing them spar­ingly and high­light­ing their pris­tine fla­vor. Star large plates in­clude gochu­jang­glazed pork shoul­der, tra­di­tional kalbi, or, bet­ter still, the soon­dubu, a stew fea­tur­ing clams, mus­sels and tofu in a kim­chi broth, sort of a Korean bouil­l­abaisse.

Open: Din­ner Tues­day-Sat­ur­day. Prices: Small plates $9-$16; shared en­trees $32-$38. 5420 N. Clark St., 708-607-2102. — Phil Vet­tel

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