RIVER NORTH

Red Eye Chicago - - Around Town -

Bar Ra­mone The menu at this cozy wine bar by Let­tuce En­ter­tain You is a straight­for­ward col­lec­tion of Span­ish tapas and Basque pin­txos from Doug Psaltis and Hisanobu Osaka, and most of the usual sus­pects are present and ac­counted for. There are cheese and ham boards; crudo and veg­etable dishes; and other plates di­vided among “clas­sic” and “modern” tapas. Crispy ar­ti­choke pieces make for a fine pin­txo, and Osaka man­ages a clever play on an­gu­las a la Bil­baina, sub­bing Ja­panese ice­fish for baby eels in a dashi broth for­ti­fied with gar­lic oil and chile de ar­bol. Duck pou­tine might of­fend purists, but is sat­is­fy­ing none­the­less. As for the ev­er­chang­ing vino se­lec­tion, don’t be afraid to tap team mem­bers for their cur­rent fa­vorites — their en­thu­si­asm for the wines is ap­par­ent, and they know off the top of their heads what is drink­ing well and, al­most or­a­cle­like, what you may like that evening.

Open: Din­ner daily. Prices: Small plates $5.95-$19.95. 441 N. Clark St., 312-9856909. — Phil Vet­tel and Joseph Her­nan­dez

Bea­con Tav­ern This pro­ject by Billy Law­less (The Gage, The Dawson) is tucked into a plaza just west of the Wrigley Build­ing. Seafood is a fo­cus, with shrimp toast coated in truf­fle but­ter and a prawn salad that pops thanks to pep­padew pep­pers, but there’s also a tow­er­ing burger. Don’t skip the ched­dar bay bis­cuits, a tongue-incheek homage to Red Lob­ster.

Open: Lunch and din­ner daily. Prices: $12-$40. 405 N. Wabash Ave., 312.955.4226. — P.V.

Katana A con­cept that orig­i­nated on LA’s Sunset Strip, Katana com­bines night­clubby vi­su­als with am­bi­tious, high­level cook­ing, high­lighted by the dishes emerg­ing from the sushi and ro­bata bars. The a la carte menu of­fers a dizzy­ing ar­ray of choices, and one can opt for an omakase (chef ’s choice) menu for $175. Bev­er­age

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