NORTH CEN­TER

Red Eye Chicago - - Around Town -

Satur­day. 933 N. Ash­land Ave., 773-697-4961. — P.V.

Kit­sune This lat­est ef­fort from El­iz­a­beth chef/owner Iliana Re­gan is, like ev­ery other con­cept she’s opened, in­ti­mate, highly per­sonal and as adorably pre­cious as the car­toon-y fig­urines she em­ploys as dec­o­ra­tion. The 24-seat spot of­fers dishes rooted in Ja­panese fla­vors, but in­cor­po­rat­ing the lo­cal, for­aged in­gre­di­ents Re­gan is known for. For ex­am­ple, chawan­mushi, a sa­vory Ja­panese cus­tard, comes with shred­ded Jonah crab­meat and over­lap­ping coins of lo­cal radish. Don’t miss the thickly sliced por­ridge bread served with housecul­tured but­ter.

Open: Din­ner Tues­daySatur­day, brunch Sun­day. Prices: Large plates $16-$26. 4229 N. Lin­coln Ave., no phone. — P.V.

Le Sud Given the gen­eral de­cline in the num­ber of French restau­rants in the city — par­tic­u­larly the dearth of new open­ings — the un­apolo­getic Chicago-meet­sProvence dé­cor of this Roscoe Vil­lage space car­ries a cer­tain bravado. With a name that trans­lates to “the south,” Le Sud owner Sandy Chen took her in­spi­ra­tion from her trav­els in South­ern France. But the menu, by ex­ec­u­tive chef Ryan Brosseau (Peren­nial Vi­rant, Ta­ble, Don­key & Stick), also dips its toes into the Mediter­ranean. Brosseau re­spects tra­di­tion but doesn’t feel overly bound by it. Dishes get novel ap­proaches, and meat en­trees are lov­ingly han­dled. Add an in­ter­est­ing and highly af­ford­able wine list, and bright, at­ten­tive ser­vice, and Le Sud looks like a hit.

Open: Din­ner daily. Prices: Main cour­ses $18-$44. 2301 W. Roscoe St., 773-857-1985. — P.V.

JOSE M. OS­O­RIO/TRI­BUNE FILE

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