Supplying homemade biscuits done with care
Without question, the River City has been abundantly blessed with quality biscuit restaurants in the past few years. We have The Fancy Biscuit in the Fan, Salt & Forge in Jackson Ward, and Early Bird Biscuit Co. in the Fan and North Side. (And that’s just for starters.)
Root Stock Provisions, one of the newer entries, brought a vegetarian- and vegan-friendly biscuit space to Shockoe Bottom in May. The breakfastand-lunch house also specializes in homemade breads and desserts, including seasonal cakes and pies.
On a recent morning, I ordered the Pearl Sugar Chocolate biscuit ($3 each, $15 half-dozen, $24 dozen), which was a sugary treat — crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside. Other choices were Buttermilk, Sweet Potato and Vegan Peppercorn and Chive.
Layered breakfast Fruit Parfait ($5) was fresh and light with overnight oats and chia, homemade granola, wonderfully flavorful strawberries and jam that rotates seasonally (on my visit, it was a fabulous cranberry orange).
The day’s Seasonal Quiche ($7 with choice of side) was made with Swiss cheese, red pepper and onion. It felt a bit uninspired and wasn’t as memorable as some of the other items I tasted.
The BLT ($7) was nicely
Root Stock Provisions
Address: 1810 E. Main St. Phone: (804) 562-3695
Website: www.rootstock provisions.com
Open for: breakfast and lunch seven days a week
Vibe: crunchy-granola earthiness
Ideal for: low-key Sunday morning breakfast
Noise level: average
Best seat in the house:
at the window table overlooking Main Street
Vegetarian: breakfast biscuits and other breakfast items, soups, salads, sandwiches, sides; kitchen accommodates vegetarian and vegan requests whenever possible
yes Reservations: no Outdoor seating: coming this spring
Prices quoted in reviews are subject to change. done with sweet bacon, lettuce and tomato on homemade focaccia bread. The Cubano ($9) was even better — in fact, it was seriously delicious — with ham, roasted pork, pickles, mustard and Swiss cheese on a sandwich roll.
I also tried the Chicken Salad from the deli case, where Root Stock Provisions also sells items such as smoked salmon salad, whole quiche, seasonal desserts and eggs by the dozen. The Chicken Salad was tempting in the case with its chunky chicken, green celery and red grapes, but it needed a slight flavor boost. (I craved the tang a little extra mayo would’ve provided.)
Among Root Stock Provisions’ homemade desserts, the Tahini with Chocolate Cookie ($1) was dense and sweet, with tahini added to the cookie dough for fat and flavor. The Vegan Dark Chocolate Brownie ($4) was generous in size, soft and chocolatey. (Did it taste exactly like a traditional brownie? Well, no, of course not. Still, it was tasty and an interesting departure from the usual.)
There was Rostov’s coffee ($3) to wash it all down, followed by a sweet-tart and fizzy Homemade Nitro Lemonade ($3) for the road.
Root Stock Provisions also does made-fromscratch ice cream in fun seasonal varieties. This winter, it’s offering peppermint marshmallow and apple pie flavors, for example. In the summer, it made a lemonade ice cream. And there’s always a vegan option available.
Ryan Koontz, Ron
Morse and Jeb White of Historical Restaurant Concepts own Root Stock Provisions as well as Postbellum and Station 2; Kevin Church serves as chef for all three. They’ve transformed the small, minimalist space for their newest venture into one with light colors and an appealing crunchy-granola aesthetic. Coming next door this spring from the four: Oak & Apple, serving barbecue and cider.
A new homemade biscuit spot always has a place here in town, especially when it’s done with quality and care. That certainly includes Root Stock Provisions.
Executive chef Kevin Church (left) and Micah Head work with dough at Root Stock Provisions, a small, minimalist space with an appealing crunchy-granola aesthetic.