FOR ALL OF ITS FAMOUS REDS, Bordeaux remains a mystery to many—even serious wine lovers. France’s premier winemaking region may be home to lauded and legendary labels—Lafite Rothschild, Latour, and Margaux among them—but the birthplace of the grand crus is notorious for its old-fashioned (some may even say snobbish) ways. Lately, however, it seems the Bordelais are turning over a new leaf: Longstanding wineries are slowly— quietly— opening their cellar doors to eager oenophiles, and new châteaux, Michelin-starred restaurants, and museums are even encouraging visitors to stay awhile. It’s not quite friendly Napa, but Bordeaux is suddenly more social than ever. And now is the time to sample all of its fruits.