Removing a Bezel Set Stone
On numerous forums, I frequently see questions about how to remove a stone from a bezel setting. Though there are many prong-lifting tools, I haven’t seen any for lifting a bezel from a stone. In the past, when I did a lot of repairs and stone replacements in bezel settings, I needed a specific tool to do the job. A lot of these jobs had to be done on older pieces where the top of the bezel was badly worn away, which complicated the activity. I ended up making the tool I needed.
The tool is made from a double-ended dentist’s tool. The steps to create this type of tool involve drilling a hole slightly smaller than the handle of the dental tool down the length of a one-half inch wood dowel and inserting it into the device. The outcome of this is a handle to better grip the tool. Next, the ends of the dental tool need to be modified. On the end of the dental tool with the slight bend in it, remove the tip and shape the remaining section by grinding it to a slight double-sided dome, featuring a sharp tip on it. On the other section, remove one-half inch of the tip to leave a straight end. Dome two sides of this tip and leave the end of it thin and sharp.
It will end up being a thicker tip than the other.
To use the tool to wedge the bezel away from the stone, you gently insert the smaller bent end of the tool first. Gently push the sharpened end under the bezel’s top edge and push it down between the bezel and the stone. Do not pry the bezel away from the stone. It will tear the bezel. Let the taper of the tool do the work of pushing the bezel away from the stone. Once it penetrates about 1/8” inside, move it slightly to the side and reinsert it under the bezel. Continue this process around the stone.
Next, use the larger straight tip of the tool and press it further down beside the stone. Again, do this all around the stone, wedging the bezel away from the stone. At this time, the stone should drop free from the setting. On some occasions, the stone may be glued into the bezel setting. If the stone isn’t porous, you should be able to soak it in denatured alcohol or another similar solvent until it drops free of the setting.