Between the Lines

Surf’s Up!

RSWLiving - - Departments - Doug Gallogly lives in Fort My­ers with his wife Jackie. BY DOUG GALLOGLY

Who hasn’t fan­ta­sized about leav­ing their re­spon­si­bil­i­ties be­hind and chas­ing some wild dream? We all have our in­ner “wild child,” but few of us give in to its call.

The World’s Rich­est Bus­boy ( Sun­daze pub­lish­ing, 2010, $ 14.95), by J. J. Brito, is a per­sonal nar­ra­tion of one boy’s jour­ney to man­hood. Grow­ing up in south­ern Cal­i­for­nia, it was only nat­u­ral that J. J. would give surf­ing a try, but a grow­ing dis­il­lu­sion­ment with the con­sumerism that sur­rounded him pushed him to­ward a life fo­cused on surf­ing, where work sim­ply sup­ported his quest for the per­fect wave.

Work­ing as a bus­boy al­lowed J. J. the free­dom to get out on his board most morn­ings. As time passed, though, his pas­sion for surf­ing led him to more ex­otic beaches in less civ­i­lized coun­tries. Th­ese sto­ries are the heart of his book, as he hitch­hiked through Aus­tralia and rode a mo­tor­cy­cle from Cal­i­for­nia to Costa Rica.

J. J. spins an hon­est, en­ter­tain­ing story. His jour­neys led him to ex­tra­or­di­nary places, and the dan­gers he faced only made the re­ward that much greater. Per­haps his great­est dis­cov­ery was that ev­ery­where he trav­eled he found gen­er­ous peo­ple and new friends, which is, per­haps, worth trad­ing a “safe” life for.

J. J. Brito has lived around the world, but most re­cently in St. Au­gus­tine Beach, Florida, with his wife and daugh­ter. The World’s Rich­est Bus­boy is avail­able for down­load on ama­zon. com and his web­site, jjbrito.com.

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