Wine Whisperer

Sicily offers unknown varieties worth trying

Wines You Can’t Refuse

Since practically the beginning of time, the Romans (then the Italians) have been toying with the idea of building a bridge over the Straits of Messina to link the island of Sicily with the mainland. Hasn’t happened yet. Maybe never will.

This makes a visit to Sicily a bit of a hike, but one that’s well worth taking. The scenery is spectacular, there are more Greek temples in Sicily than in Greece itself, and the wines are stunning—especially the varietals you never heard of.

For practically ever, Sicilian grapes were used for raisins, while certain varietals were grown to make Marsala, a sweet wine that most people associate with Sicily, if they think about it at all. Over the past 30 years or so, however, the Sicilians have realized that they, too, can make great wine—and they have become very hip to international grape varietals. In fact, Sicily is one of the two largest wine-producing areas in Italy, which is saying a lot. Sicilian producers such as Planeta, Regaleali and Donnafugata make chardonnays, syrahs and other wines that hold their own against anything that comes from the mainland. But if you really want to pick up some great bargains, look for wines made from grapes that are indigenous to Sicily.

Nero d’Avola, as the name indicates, is native to Avola in the extreme southeast corner of the island, near Siracusa, but the grape is now grown everywhere, and just about every Sicilian producer uses it. The good news is, no matter which kind of nero you buy, it’s probably going to be good. Since I sample so widely (ahem …), I’ve tasted neros from many of the major producers and never met one I didn’t like. The wine has an intense ruby color and flavors of dark fruit, earth and aromatic herbs. It’s a big, satisfying wine that’s great with grilled meats. The two major producers are Planeta and Regaleali, but other brands are well worth trying.

At the eastern end of the island, the still-active volcano of Mount Etna broods over the landscape. It’s 10,000 feet high, snow-capped year round and emits a steady column of white steam into the deep blue sky, just to let us know it’s not dead yet. On the eastern slope the nerello mascalese grapes grow, and while you might never think to walk into a wine store and ask for a bottle, maybe you should.

Often blended with other wines, nerello mascalese makes a great quaff in its pure form. Medium bodied, spicy and with strong notes of deep fruit, violets, earth and forest floor, it’s a bit like cabernet sauvignon, supports relatively high levels of alcohol and pairs well with steaks, chops and other hearty meats.

The point: Don’t be afraid to try unfamiliar wine varietals. There’s a discovery in every bottle.

OVER THE PAST 30 YEARS OR SO, THE SICILIANS HAVE REALIZED THAT THEY, TOO, CAN MAKE GREAT WINE.