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Bus-sized whale sharks are fun, a safe swim with the fishes

Bus-sized whale sharks are fun, a safe swim with the fishes

- BY GLENN OSTLE

In Mexico he is Señor Big. But to every water-loving adventurer snorkeling next to him, a whale shark is nothing but pure, unadultera­ted fun―and great exercise to boot.

Every summer, between June and September, these rarest and largest of sharks congregate by the hundreds in the waters of Mexico’s Isla Mujeres, a ferry hop from Cancun. This is one of the few places to swim with these majestic fish and marvel at their enormous dimensions, distinctiv­e checkerboa­rd appearance and wide mouths that open to swallow massive amounts of surface water from which they strain food such as plankton, fish eggs and other nutrients.

NO WORRIES

The whale shark ( Rhincodon typus) dates back almost 60 million years. The largest one ever confirmed was school- bus long at 41 feet and weighing about 47,000 pounds, but there are unconfirme­d reports of giants considerab­ly larger. It is by far the largest living non-mammalian vertebrate, living about 70 years in open waters of the tropical oceans, but rarely in water cooler than 71 degrees.

Like other pelagaics (neither close to the bottom/shoreline), whale sharks are counter-shaded, light on the underside to camouflage them, dark on top to blend in from above. The backs

are dark gray with a pattern of white spots, like dominoes. As these spots differ on each animal, they are used like fingerprin­ts to better understand and protect them from illegal fishing.

Despite their impressive size, whale sharks have no teeth. Constant movement and search for food makes them almost totally oblivious to anything or anyone around them, including curious critters in funny masks and flippered feet. The trick is keeping up with them.

SNORKELING ONLY

Tour operators offer daily trips from Cancun or Isla Mujeres. Sharing the water with these giant fish is one of life’s most exhilarati­ng experience­s. Your encounter begins in the water just ahead of and in the path of a cruising animal. You are allowed a mask, snorkel and fins (no scuba diving allowed here). Cameras are allowed and you must wear something to keep you afloat.

As a whale shark approaches, you turn and start to swim alongside. The creature will check you out with its small eye, but it is only a cursory examinatio­n. He seems to know that you won’t be there long. As you kick to keep up, the huge array of white spots is mesmerizin­g and it is tempting to reach out and stroke the animal—but that isn’t allowed. Whale sharks cruise leisurely, but are propelled by powerful horizontal sweeps of their tails. Even the best swimmer gets tired and has to break off the encounter, to be replaced by the next person.

Because of their docile and peaceful nature, there is no risk to swim with whale sharks, unless, of course, you happen in front of one, in which case you need to scurry to avoid being hit by the high pectoral fin.

PROTECTING A RESOURCE

Whale-shark tourism in Mexico is designed to be eco-friendly, but also to protect participan­ts and the whale sharks. Prices, season dates and rules are strict and heavily enforced. Tour services are

fully licensed and adhere strictly to the rules, as any violation puts you in danger and endangers the animals and their ability to sustain their habits.

Being in the water with these gentle giants is a thrill that should be on your bucket list.

It is a trip highly recommende­d for underwater photograph­ers and videograph­ers, but also suitable for the whole family, since no scuba diving is done, only snorkeling.

Encounters lasting several hours require that you be a good swimmer and willing to obey the rules that the Mexican government takes very seriously. Needless to say, you are exhausted as you head back to shore, but you realize that you’ve just had the experience of a lifetime.

HOW TO GET THERE

Isla Mujeres is just a 15-minute ferry ride from Cancun. Any number of tour operators can take you out to the site of the congregati­on. Contact Big Fish Expedition­s (bigfishexp­editions. com) or Solo Buceo (solobuceo.com).

 ??  ?? Touching whale sharks is forbidden by Mexican authoritie­s. Sharing the water with these giant fish is one of life’s most exhilarati­ng experience­s.
Touching whale sharks is forbidden by Mexican authoritie­s. Sharing the water with these giant fish is one of life’s most exhilarati­ng experience­s.
 ??  ?? Snorkelers (above), including the author (left), preparing for a swim with whale sharks. The docile fish weighing many tons vacuum the ocean for food.
Snorkelers (above), including the author (left), preparing for a swim with whale sharks. The docile fish weighing many tons vacuum the ocean for food.
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 ??  ?? As you kick to keep up, the huge array of white spots is mesmerizin­g and it is tempting to reach out and stroke the animal—but that isn’t allowed.
As you kick to keep up, the huge array of white spots is mesmerizin­g and it is tempting to reach out and stroke the animal—but that isn’t allowed.
 ??  ?? Only snorkeling (top) is allowed in shark watching. Body spots (above) are like fingerprin­ts identifyin­g each creature. Underwater work isn’t dangerous, but get ready to move as they near.
Only snorkeling (top) is allowed in shark watching. Body spots (above) are like fingerprin­ts identifyin­g each creature. Underwater work isn’t dangerous, but get ready to move as they near.
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