The food is great—thanks to a national drive to improve Ireland’s culinary reputation. The music in the west is either Johnny Cash country or great Celtic airs. The driving is insane. Roads built for donkey carts struggle to sustain twoway car and bus travel with cliffs overlooking the ocean on one side and stone walls on the other. People are friendly. Pubs are welcoming and are the social center of each community. The Irish are frugal, and often save on heat!